Eastern Europe - The Principal Navigations, Voyages, Traffiques And Discoveries Of The English Nation - Volume 2 - Collected By Richard Hakluyt
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Et Frontem Anterius Vsque Ad
Frontinellam, Super Quam Relinquunt Manipulum Pilorum Descendentium Vsque
Ad Supercilia.
In angulis occipitis relinquunt crines, quibus faciunt
tricas, quas succingunt nodando vsque ad aures.
Et habitus puellarum non
differt ab habitu virorum, nisi quod aliquantulum est longior. Sed in
crastino postquam est nupta radit caluariam suam a medietate capitis versus
frontem, et habet tunicam latam sicut cucullam monialis, et per omnia
latiorem et longiorem, fissam ante, quam ligat sub dextro latere. In hoc
enim differunt Tartari a Turcis: quod Turci ligani tunicas suas ad
sinistram, Tartari semper ad dextram. Postea habent ornamentum capitis,
quod vocant botta, quod fit de cortice arboris vel alia materia, quam
possunt inuenire, leuiore: et est grossum et rotundum, quantum potest
duabus manibus complecti; longum vero vnius cubiti et plus, quadrum
superius, sicut capitellum vnius columna. Istud botta cooperiunt panno
serico precioso; et est concauum interius: et super capitellum in medio vel
super quadraturam illam ponunt virgulam de calamis pennarum vel cannis
gracilibus longitudinis scilicet vnius cubiti et plus: et illam sibi
virgulam ornant superius de pennis pauonis, et per longum in circuitu
pennulis cauda malardi, et etiam lapidibus praciosis. Diuites domina istud
ornamentum ponunt in summitate capitis quod stringunt fortiter cum almucia,
qua foramen habet in summitate ad hoc aptatum, et in isto recondunt crines
suos quos recolligunt a parte posteriori ad summitatem capitis quasi in
nodo vno et reponunt in illo botta, quod postea fortiter ligant sub
gutture. Vnde quum equitant plures domina simul et videntur a longe,
apparent milites, habentes galeas in capitibus cum lanceis eleuatis. Illud
enim botta apparet galea de super lancea. Et sedent omhes mulieres super
equos sicut viti diuersificantes coxas; et ligant cucullas suas panno
serico aerij coloris super renes, et alia fascia stringunt ad mamillas: et
ligant vnam peciam albam sub occulis, qua descendit vsque ad pectus. Et
sunt mulieres mira pinguedinis, et qua minus habet de naso pulchrior
reputatur. Deturpant etiam turpiter pinguedine facies suas: nunquam cubant
in lecto pro puerperio.
The same in English.
Of the fashion which the Tartars vse in cutting their haire, and of the
attire of their women. Chap. 8.
The men shaue a plot foure square vpon the crownes of their heads, and from
the two formost corners they shaue, as it were, two seames downe to their
temples: they shaue also their temples and the hinder part of their head
euen vnto the nape of the necke: likewise they shaue the forepart of their
scalp downe to their foreheads, and vpon their foreheads they leaue a locke
of hayre reaching downe vnto their eye browes: vpon the two hindermost
corners of their heads, they haue two lockes also, which they twine and
braid into knots and so bind and knit them vnder each eare one. Moreouer
their womens garments differ not from their mens, sauing that they are
somewhat longer. But on the morrowe after one of their women is maried,
shee shaues her scalpe from the middest of her head downe to her forehead,
and weares a wide garment like vnto the hood of a Nunne, yea larger and
longer in all parts then a Nuns hood, being open before and girt vnto them
vnder the right side. For herein doe the Tartars differ from the Turkes:
because the Turkes fasten their garments to their bodies on the left side:
but the Tartars alwaies on the right side. They haue also an ornament for
their heads which they call Botta, being made of the barke of a tree, or of
some such other lighter matter as they can find, which by reason of the
thicknes and roundnes therof cannot be holden but in both hands together:
and it hath a square sharp spire rising from the top therof, being more
then a cubite in length, and fashioned like vnto a pinacle. The said Botta
they couer al ouer with a piece of rich silke: and it is hollow within: and
vpon the midst of the sayd spire or square toppe, they put a bunch of quils
or of slender canes a cubite long and more: and the sayd bunch, on the top
thereof, they beautifie with Peacocks feathers, and round about al the
length therof, with the feathers of a Malards taile, and with precious
stones also. Great ladies weare this kind of ornament vpon their heads
binding it strongly with a certain hat or coyfe, which hath an hole in the
crowne, fit for the spire to come through it: and vnder the fore-said
ornament they couer the haires of their heads, which they gather vp round
together from the hinder part therof to the crowne, and so lap them vp in a
knot or bundel within the said Botta, which afterward they bind strongly
vnder their throtes. Hereupon when a great company of such gentlewomen ride
together, and are beheld a far off, they seem to be souldiers with helmets
on their heads carrying their launces vpright: for the said Botta appeareth
like an helmet with a launce ouer it. Al their women sit on horsebacke
bestriding their horses like men: and they bind their hoods or gownes about
their wastes with a skie coloured silke skarfe, and with another skarfe
they girde it aboue their breasts: and they bind also a piece of white
silke like a mufler or mask vnder their eyes, reaching down vnto their
breast These gentlewomen are exceeding fat, and the lesser their noses be,
the fairer are they esteemed: they daube ouer their sweet faces with grease
too shamefully: and they neuer lie in bed for their trauel of childbirth.
De officio mulierum, et operibus earum, ac de nuptijs earum. Cap. 9.
Officium foeminarum est ducere bigas, ponere domus super eas et deponere,
mungere vaccas, facere butirum et griut, parare pelles, et consuere eas,
quas consuunt filo deneruis; diuidunt enim neruos in minuta fila, et postea
illa contorquent in vnum longum filum. Consuunt etiam soculares et soccos
et alias vestes. Vestes vero nunquam lauant, quia dicunt quod Deus tunc
irascitur, et quod fiant torotrua si suspendantur ad siccandum:
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