By The Ionian Sea Notes Of A Ramble In Southern Italy By George Gissing
















































































 -  To-day great breakers were rolling upon the strand, and all
the blue of the bay was dashed with white - Page 52
By The Ionian Sea Notes Of A Ramble In Southern Italy By George Gissing - Page 52 of 152 - First - Home

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To-Day Great Breakers Were Rolling Upon The Strand, And All The Blue Of The Bay Was Dashed With White Foam; Another Night Would, I Hoped, Bring Calm, And Then The Voyage!

Dis aliter visum.

A little fleet of sailing vessels and coasting steamers had taken refuge within the harbour, which is protected by a great mole. A good haven; the only one, indeed, between Taranto and Reggio, but it grieves one to remember that the mighty blocks built into the sea-barrier came from that fallen temple. We are told that as late as the sixteenth century the building remained all but perfect, with eight-and-forty pillars, rising there above the Ionian Sea; a guide to sailors, even as when AEneas marked it on his storm-tossed galley. Then it was assailed, cast down, ravaged by a Bishop of Cotrone, one Antonio Lucifero, to build his episcopal palace. Nearly three hundred years later, after the terrible earthquake of 1783, Cotrone strengthened her harbour with the great stones of the temple basement. It was a more legitimate pillage.

Driven inland by the gale, I wandered among low hills which overlook the town. Their aspect is very strange, for they consist entirely - on the surface, at all events - of a yellowish-grey mud, dried hard, and as bare as the high road. A few yellow hawkweeds, a few camomiles, grew in hollows here and there; but of grass not a blade. It is easy to make a model of these Crotonian hills.

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