Greek Monks, Who Through The Darkest Age Were Skilful
Copyists, Continued In Calabria The Memorable Work Of Cassiodorus.
The Ninth Century Saw Saracen Invasion, And Then It Was, No Doubt,
That The Second Religious House Under Mons Moscius Perished From Its
Place.
Thinking over this, I walked away from the cave and climbed again to
the railway; my friends also were silent and ruminative.
Not
unnaturally, I suspected that a desire for substantial thanks had
some part in their Silence, and at a convenient spot I made suitable
offering. It was done, I trust, with all decency, for I knew that I
had the better kind of Calabrian to deal with; but neither the
jovially intelligent man nor the pleasant simpleton would for a
moment entertain this suggestion. They refused with entire dignity
- grave, courteous, firm-and as soon as I had apologized, which I
did not without emphasis, we were on the same terms as before; with
handshaking, we took kindly leave of each other. Such self-respect
is the rarest thing in Italy south of Rome, but in Calabria I found
it more than once.
By when I had walked back to the station, hunger exhausted me. There
was no buffet, and seemingly no place in the neighbourhood where
food could be purchased, but on my appealing to the porter I learnt
that he was accustomed to entertain stray travellers in his house
hard by, whither he at once led me. To describe the room where my
meal was provided would be sheer ingratitude:
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