"Tutti santi - tutti santi!" at each
osculation. Next, they prostrated themselves on the floor and licked
the cold stones, and after wallowing there awhile, rose up and began to
kiss a small fissure in the masonry of the wall, the old woman
whispering, "Santissimo!" A familiar spectacle, no doubt; but one which
never fails of its effect. This anti-hygienic crack in the wall, with
its suggestions of yoni-worship, attracted me so strongly that I begged
a priest to explain to me its mystical signification. But he only said,
with a touch of mediaeval contempt:
"Sono femine!"
He showed me, later on, a round Roman pillar near the entrance of the
church worn smooth by the bodies of females who press themselves between
it and the wall, in order to become mothers. The notion caused him some
amusement - he evidently thought this practice a speciality of Venosa.
In my country, I said, pillars with a contrary effect would be more
popular among the fair sex.
Lear gives another account of this phallic emblem. He says that
perambulating it hand in hand with another person, the two are sure to
remain friends for life.
This is pre-eminently a "Victorian" version.
VII
THE BANDUSIAN FOUNT
The traveller in these parts is everlastingly half-starved. Here, at
Venosa, the wine is good - excellent, in fact; but the food monotonous
and insufficient.
