Buildings And Towns Are The Only Things That Show Well
In A Glare.
We perhaps, therefore, thought the valley of the Moesa
to be of such singular beauty on account of the day on which we saw
it, but doubt whether it must not be absolutely among the most
beautiful of the subalpine valleys upon the Italian side.
The least interesting part is that between Bellinzona and Roveredo,
but soon after leaving Roveredo the valley begins to get narrower
and to assume a more mountain character. Ere long the eye catches
sight of a white church tower and a massive keep, near to one
another and some two thousand feet above the road. This is Santa
Maria in Calanca. One can see at once that it must be an important
place for such a district, but it is strange why it should be
placed so high. I will say more about it later on.
Presently we passed Cama, where there is an inn, and where the road
branches off into the Val Calanca. Alighting here for a few
minutes we saw a cane lupino - that is to say, a dun mouse-coloured
dog about as large as a mastiff, and with a very large infusion of
wolf blood in him. It was like finding one's self alone with a
wolf - but he looked even more uncanny and ferocious than a wolf. I
once saw a man walking down Fleet Street accompanied by one of
these cani lupini, and noted the general attention and alarm which
the dog caused.
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