For Some Time One Keeps To The Path Through
The Wooded Gorge, And With The River Foaming Far Below; In Early
Morning While This Path Is In Shade, Or, Again, After Sunset, It Is
One Of The Most Beautiful Of Its Kind That I Know.
After a while a
gate is reached, and an open upland valley is entered upon -
evidently an old lake filled up, and neither very broad nor very
long, but grassed all over, and with the river winding through it
like an English brook.
This is the valley of Sambucco. There are
two collections of stalle for the cattle, or monti - one at the
nearer end and the other at the farther.
The floor of the valley can hardly be less than 5000 feet above the
sea. I shall never forget the pleasure with which I first came
upon it. I had long wanted an ideal upland valley; as a general
rule high valleys are too narrow, and have little or no level
ground. If they have any at all there often is too much as with
the one where Andermatt and Hospenthal are - which would in some
respects do very well - and too much cultivated, and do not show
their height. An upland valley should first of all be in an
Italian-speaking country; then it should have a smooth, grassy,
perfectly level floor of say neither much more nor less than a
hundred and fifty yards in breadth and half-a-mile in length. A
small river should go babbling through it with occasional smooth
parts, so as to take the reflections of the surrounding mountains.
It should have three or four fine larches or pines scattered about
it here and there, but not more. It should be completely land-
locked, and there should be nothing in the way of human handiwork
save a few chalets, or a small chapel and a bridge, but no tilled
land whatever. Here oven in summer the evening air will be crisp,
and the dew will form as soon as the sun goes off; but the
mountains at one end of it will keep the last rays of the sun. It
is then the valley is at its best, especially if the goats and
cattle are coming together to be milked.
The valley of Sambucco has all this and a great deal more, to say
nothing of the fact that there are excellent trout in it. I have
shown it to friends at different times, and they have all agreed
with me that for a valley neither too high nor too low, nor too big
nor too little, the valley of Sambucco is one of the best that any
of us know of - I mean to look at and enjoy, for I suppose as
regards painting it is hopeless. I think it can be well rendered
by the following piece of music as by anything else:- {33}
[At this point in the book a music score is given]
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