To the bridge of the evil man; though I dare say
if you get to Pont Erwyd - and I wish you may get there - you will
have had enough of it and will stay there for the night, more
especially as there is a good inn."
Leaving Machynlleth, I ascended a steep hill which rises to the
south of it. From the top of this hill there is a fine view of the
town, the river, and the whole valley of the Dyfi. After stopping
for a few minutes to enjoy the prospect I went on. The road at
first was exceedingly good, though up and down, and making frequent
turnings. The scenery was beautiful to a degree: lofty hills were
on either side, clothed most luxuriantly with trees of various
kinds, but principally oaks. "This is really very pleasant," said
I, "but I suppose it is too good to last long." However, I went on
for a considerable way, the road neither deteriorating nor the
scenery decreasing in beauty. "Surely I can't be in the right
road," said I; "I wish I had an opportunity of asking." Presently
seeing an old man working with a spade in a field near a gate, I
stopped and said in Welsh: "Am I in the road to the Pont y Gwr
Drwg?" The old man looked at me for a moment, then shouldering his
spade he came up to the gate, and said in English: "In truth, sir,
you are."
"I was told that the road thither was a very bad one," said I, "but
this is quite the contrary."
"This road does not go much farther, sir," said he; "it was made to
accommodate grand folks who live about here."
"You speak very good English," said I; "where did you get it?"
He looked pleased, and said that in his youth he had lived some
years in England.
"Can you read?" said I.
"Oh yes," said he, "both Welsh and English."
"What have you read in Welsh?" said I.
"The Bible and Twm O'r Nant."
"What pieces of Twm O'r Nant have you read?"
"I have read two of his interludes and his life."
"And which do you like best - his life or his interludes?"
"Oh, I like his life best."
"And what part of his life do you like best?"
"Oh, I like that part best where he gets the ship into the water at
Abermarlais."
"You have a good judgment," said I; "his life is better than his
interludes, and the best part of his life is where he describes his
getting the ship into the water. But do the Methodists about here
in general read Twm O'r Nant?"
"I don't know," said be; "I am no Methodist."
"Do you belong to the Church?"
"I do."
"And why do you belong to the Church?"
"Because I believe it is the best religion to get to heaven by."
"I am much of your opinion," said I. "Are there many Church people
about here?"
"Not many," said he, "but more than when I was young."
"How old are you?"
"Sixty-nine."
"You are not very old," said I.