These were the
first goats which I had seen in Wales; for Wales is not at present
the land of goats, whatever it may have been.
I passed under a crag exceedingly lofty, and of very frightful
appearance. It hung menacingly over the road. With this crag the
wall of rocks terminated; beyond it lay an extensive strath,
meadow, or marsh bounded on the cast by a lofty hill. The road lay
across the marsh. I went forward, crossed a bridge over a
beautiful streamlet, and soon arrived at the foot of the hill. The
road now took a turn to the right, that is to the south, and seemed
to lead round the hill. Just at the turn of the road stood a small
neat cottage. There was a board over the door with an inscription.
I drew nigh and looked at it, expecting that it would tell me that
good ale was sold within, and read: "Tea made here, the draught
which cheers but not inebriates." I was before what is generally
termed a temperance house.
"The bill of fare does not tempt you, sir," said a woman who made
her appearance at the door, just as I was about to turn away with
an exceedingly wry face.
"It does not," said I, "and you ought to be ashamed of yourself to
have nothing better to offer to a traveller than a cup of tea. I
am faint; and I want good ale to give me heart, not wishy-washy tea
to take away the little strength I have."
"What would you have me do, sir? Glad should I be to have a cup of
ale to offer you, but the magistrates, when I applied to them for a
licence, refused me one; so I am compelled to make a cup of tea, in
order to get a crust of bread. And if you choose to step in, I
will make you a cup of tea, not wishy-washy, I assure you, but as
good as ever was brewed."
"I had tea for my breakfast at Beth Gelert," said I, "and want no
more till to-morrow morning. What's the name of that strange-
looking crag across the valley?"
"We call it Craig yr hyll ddrem, sir; which means - I don't know
what it means in English."
"Does it mean the crag of the frightful look?"
"It does, sir," said the woman; "ah, I see you understand Welsh.
Sometimes it's called Allt Traeth."
"The high place of the sandy channel," said I; "did the sea ever
come up here?"
"I can't say, sir; perhaps it did; who knows?"
"I shouldn't wonder," said I, "if there was once an arm of the sea
between that crag and this hill.
