"Allsopp's ale," said I, "will do for July and August, but scarcely
for the end of October. However, bring me a pint; I prefer it at
all times to porter."
My dinner concluded, I trifled away my time till about ten o'clock,
and then went to bed.
CHAPTER LXXIII
Breakfast - The Freckled Maid - Llan uwch Llyn - The Landlady -
Llewarch Hen - Conversions to the Church.
AWAKING occasionally in the night I heard much storm and rain. The
following morning it was gloomy and lowering. As it was Sunday I
determined to pass the day at Bala, and accordingly took my Prayer
Book out of my satchel, and also my single white shirt, which I put
on.
Having dressed myself I went to the coffee-room and sat down to
breakfast. What a breakfast! - pot of hare; ditto of trout; pot of
prepared shrimps; dish of plain shrimps; tin of sardines; beautiful
beef-steak; eggs, muffin; large loaf, and butter, not forgetting
capital tea. There's a breakfast for you!
As the little freckled maid was removing the breakfast things I
asked her how old she was.
"Eighteen, sir, last Candlemas," said the freckled maid.
"Are your parents alive?"
"My mother is, sir, but my father is dead."
"What was your father?"
"He was an Irishman, sir! and boots to this inn."
"Is your mother Irish?"
"No, sir, she is of this place; my father married her shortly after
he came here."
"Of what religion are you?"
"Church, sir, Church."
"Was your father of the Church?"
"Not always, sir; he was once what is called a Catholic. He turned
to the Church after he came here."
"A'n't there a great many Methodists in Bala?"
"Plenty, sir, plenty."
"How came your father not to go over to the Methodists instead of
the Church?"
"'Cause he didn't like them, sir; he used to say they were a
trumpery, cheating set; that they wouldn't swear, but would lie
through a three-inch board."
"I suppose your mother is a Church-woman?"
"She is now, sir; but before she knew my father she was a
Methodist."
"Of what religion is the master of the house?"
"Church, sir, Church; so is all the family."
"Who is the clergyman of the place?"
"Mr Pugh, sir!"
"Is he a good preacher?"
"Capital, sir! and so is each of his curates; he and they are
converting the Methodists left and right."
"I should like to hear him."
"Well, sir! that you can do. My master, who is going to church
presently, will be happy to accommodate you in his pew."
I went to church with the landlord, a tall gentlemanly man of the
name of Jones - Oh that eternal name of Jones! Rain was falling
fast, and we were glad to hold up our umbrellas. We did not go to
the church at Bala, at which there was no service that morning, but
to that of a little village close by, on the side of the lake, the
living of which is incorporated with that of Bala. The church
stands low down by the lake at the bottom of a little nook. Its
name which is Llan uwch Llyn, is descriptive of its position,
signifying the Church above the Lake. It is a long, low, ancient
edifice, standing north-east by south-west. The village is just
above it on a rising ground, behind which are lofty hills
pleasantly dotted with groves, trees, and houses. The interior of
the edifice has a somewhat dilapidated appearance. The service was
in Welsh. The clergyman was about forty years of age, and had a
highly-intelligent look. His voice was remarkably clear and
distinct. He preached an excellent practical sermon, text, 14th
chapter, 22nd verse of Luke, about sending out servants to invite
people to the supper. After the sermon there was a gathering for
the poor.
As I returned to the inn I had a good deal of conversation with the
landlord on religious subjects. He told me that the Church of
England, which for a long time had been a down-trodden Church in
Wales, had of late begun to raise its head, and chiefly owing to
the zeal and activity of its present ministers; that the former
ministers of the Church were good men, but had not energy enough to
suit the times in which they lived; that the present ministers
fought the Methodist preachers with their own weapons, namely,
extemporary preaching, and beat them, winning shoals from their
congregations. He seemed to think that the time was not far
distant when the Anglican Church would be the popular as well as
the established Church of Wales.
Finding myself rather dull in the inn, I went out again,
notwithstanding that it rained. I ascended the toman or mound
which I had visited on a former occasion. Nothing could be more
desolate and dreary than the scene around. The woods were stripped
of their verdure and the hills were half shrouded in mist. How
unlike was this scene to the smiling, glorious prospect which had
greeted my eyes a few months before. The rain coming down with
redoubled violence, I was soon glad to descend and regain the inn.
Shortly before dinner I was visited by the landlady, a fine tall
woman of about fifty, with considerable remains of beauty in her
countenance. She came to ask me if I was comfortable. I told her
that it was my own fault if I was not. We were soon in very
friendly discourse. I asked her her maiden name.
"Owen," said she, laughing, "which, after my present name of Jones,
is the most common name in Wales."
"They were both one and the same originally," said I, "Owen and
Jones both mean John."
She too was a staunch member of the Church of England, which she
said was the only true Church.
