I
Looked Up The Pass, And On The Hills On Both Sides.
Far above, on
my right, but standing forth bold and clear, and catching the last
rays of the sun,
Was the Convent of the Precipices, whilst directly
over against it, on the farther side of the valley, rose the
perpendicular side of the rival hill, which, to a considerable
extent intercepting the light, flung its black shadow over the
upper end of the pass, involving it in mysterious darkness.
Emerging from the centre of this gloom, with thundering sound,
dashed a river, white with foam, and bearing along with it huge
stones and branches of trees, for it was the wild Sil hurrying to
the ocean from its cradle in the heart of the Asturian hills, and
probably swollen by the recent rains.
Hours again passed away. It was now night, and we were in the
midst of woodlands, feeling our way, for the darkness was so great
that I could scarcely see the length of a yard before my horse's
head. The animal seemed uneasy, and would frequently stop short,
prick up his ears, and utter a low mournful whine. Flashes of
sheet lightning frequently illumined the black sky, and flung a
momentary glare over our path. No sound interrupted the stillness
of the night, except the slow tramp of the horses' hoofs, and
occasionally the croaking of frogs from some pool or morass. I now
bethought me that I was in Spain, the chosen land of the two
fiends, assassination and plunder, and how easily two tired and
unarmed wanderers might become their victims.
We at last cleared the woodlands, and after proceeding a short
distance, the horse gave a joyous neigh, and broke into a smart
trot. A barking of dogs speedily reached my ears, and we seemed to
be approaching some town or village. In effect we were close to
Cacabelos, a town about five miles distant from Villafranca.
It was near eleven at night, and I reflected that it would be far
more expedient to tarry in this place till the morning than to
attempt at present to reach Villafranca, exposing ourselves to all
the horrors of darkness in a lonely and unknown road. My mind was
soon made up on this point; but I reckoned without my host, for at
the first posada which I attempted to enter, I was told that we
could not be accommodated, and still less our horses, as the stable
was full of water. At the second, and there were but two, I was
answered from the window by a gruff voice, nearly in the words of
the Scripture: "Trouble me not; the door is now shut, and my
children are with me in bed; I cannot arise to let you in."
Indeed, we had no particular desire to enter, as it appeared a
wretched hovel, though the poor horses pawed piteously against the
door, and seemed to crave admittance.
We had now no choice but to resume our doleful way to Villafranca,
which, we were told, was a short league distant, though it proved a
league and a half. We found it no easy matter to quit the town,
for we were bewildered amongst its labyrinths, and could not find
the outlet. A lad about eighteen was, however, persuaded, by the
promise of a peseta, to guide us: whereupon he led us by many
turnings to a bridge, which he told us to cross, and to follow the
road, which was that of Villafranca; he then, having received his
fee, hastened from us.
We followed his directions, not, however, without a suspicion that
he might be deceiving us. The night had settled darker down upon
us, so that it was impossible to distinguish any object, however
nigh. The lightning had become more faint and rare. We heard the
rustling of trees, and occasionally the barking of dogs, which last
sound, however, soon ceased, and we were in the midst of night and
silence. My horse, either from weariness, or the badness of the
road, frequently stumbled; whereupon I dismounted, and leading him
by the bridle, soon left Antonio far in the rear.
I had proceeded in this manner a considerable way, when a
circumstance occurred of a character well suited to the time and
place.
I was again amidst trees and bushes, when the horse stopping short,
nearly pulled me back. I know not how it was, but fear suddenly
came over me, which, though in darkness and in solitude, I had not
felt before. I was about to urge the animal forward, when I heard
a noise at my right hand, and listened attentively. It seemed to
be that of a person or persons forcing their way through branches
and brushwood. It soon ceased, and I heard feet on the road. It
was the short staggering kind of tread of people carrying a very
heavy substance, nearly too much for their strength, and I thought
I heard the hurried breathing of men over-fatigued. There was a
short pause, during which I conceived they were resting in the
middle of the road; then the stamping recommenced, until it reached
the other side, when I again heard a similar rustling amidst
branches; it continued for some time and died gradually away.
I continued my road, musing on what had just occurred, and forming
conjectures as to the cause. The lightning resumed its flashing,
and I saw that I was approaching tall black mountains.
This nocturnal journey endured so long that I almost lost all hope
of reaching the town, and had closed my eyes in a doze, though I
still trudged on mechanically, leading the horse. Suddenly a voice
at a slight distance before me roared out, "Quien vive?" for I had
at last found my way to Villafranca. It proceeded from the sentry
in the suburb, one of those singular half soldiers half guerillas,
called Miguelets, who are in general employed by the Spanish
government to clear the roads of robbers.
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