I Did Not Pay Much Attention To These Hints, But My Desire
To Quit Leon Was Great, As I Was Convinced That As Long As I
Continued There I Should Be Unable To Regain My Health And Vigour.
Accordingly, at three in the morning, we departed for Galicia.
We
had scarcely proceeded half a league when we were overtaken by a
thunder-storm of tremendous violence. We were at that time in the
midst of a wood which extends to some distance in the direction in
which we were going. The trees were bowed almost to the ground by
the wind or torn up by the roots, whilst the earth was ploughed up
by the lightning, which burst all around and nearly blinded us.
The spirited Andalusian on which I rode became furious, and bounded
into the air as if possessed. Owing to my state of weakness, I had
the greatest difficulty in maintaining my seat, and avoiding a fall
which might have been fatal. A tremendous discharge of rain
followed the storm, which swelled the brooks and streams and
flooded the surrounding country, causing much damage amongst the
corn. After riding about five leagues, we began to enter the
mountainous district which surrounds Astorga: the heat now became
almost suffocating; swarms of flies began to make their appearance,
and settling down upon the horses, stung them almost to madness,
whilst the road was very flinty and trying. It was with great
difficulty that we reached Astorga, covered with mud and dust, our
tongues cleaving to our palates with thirst.
CHAPTER XXIII
Astorga - The Inn - The Maragatos - The Habits of the Maragatos - The
Statue.
We went to a posada in the suburbs, the only one, indeed, which the
place afforded. The courtyard was full of arrieros and carriers,
brawling loudly; the master of the house was fighting with two of
his customers, and universal confusion reigned around. As I
dismounted I received the contents of a wineglass in my face, of
which greeting, as it was probably intended for another, I took no
notice. Antonio, however, was not so patient, for on being struck
with a cudgel, he instantly returned the salute with his whip,
scarifying the countenance of a carman. In my endeavours to
separate these two antagonists, my horse broke loose, and rushing
amongst the promiscuous crowd, overturned several individuals and
committed no little damage. It was a long time before peace was
restored: at last we were shown to a tolerably decent chamber. We
had, however, no sooner taken possession of it, than the waggon
from Madrid arrived on its way to Coruna, filled with dusty
travellers, consisting of women, children, invalid officers and the
like. We were now forthwith dislodged, and our baggage flung into
the yard. On our complaining of this treatment, we were told that
we were two vagabonds whom nobody knew; who had come without an
arriero, and had already set the whole house in confusion. As a
great favour, however, we were at length permitted to take up our
abode in a ruinous building down the yard, adjoining the stable,
and filled with rats and vermin. Here there was an old bed with a
tester, and with this wretched accommodation we were glad to
content ourselves, for I could proceed no farther, and was burnt
with fever. The heat of the place was intolerable, and I sat on
the staircase with my head between my hands, gasping for breath:
soon appeared Antonio with vinegar and water, which I drank and
felt relieved.
We continued in this suburb three days, during the greatest part of
which time I was stretched on the tester bed. I once or twice
contrived to make my way into the town, but found no bookseller,
nor any person willing to undertake the charge of disposing of my
Testaments. The people were brutal, stupid, and uncivil, and I
returned to my tester bed fatigued and dispirited. Here I lay
listening from time to time to the sweet chimes which rang from the
clock of the old cathedral. The master of the house never came
near me, nor indeed, once inquired about me. Beneath the care of
Antonio, however, I speedily waxed stronger. "Mon maitre," said he
to me one evening, "I see you are better; let us quit this bad town
and worse posada to-morrow morning. Allons, mon maitre! Il est
temps de nous mettre en chemin pour Lugo et Galice."
Before proceeding, however, to narrate what befell us in this
journey to Lugo and Galicia, it will perhaps not be amiss to say a
few words concerning Astorga and its vicinity. It is a walled
town, containing about five or six thousand inhabitants, with a
cathedral and college, which last is, however, at present deserted.
It is situated on the confines, and may be called the capital of a
tract of land called the country of the Maragatos, which occupies
about three square leagues, and has for its north-western boundary
a mountain called Telleno, the loftiest of a chain of hills which
have their origin near the mouth of the river Minho, and are
connected with the immense range which constitutes the frontier of
the Asturias and Guipuscoa.
The land is ungrateful and barren, and niggardly repays the toil of
the cultivator, being for the most part rocky, with a slight
sprinkling of red brick earth.
The Maragatos are perhaps the most singular caste to be found
amongst the chequered population of Spain. They have their own
peculiar customs and dress, and never intermarry with the
Spaniards. Their name is a clue to their origin, as it signifies,
"Moorish Goths," and at the present day their garb differs but
little from that of the Moors of Barbary, as it consists of a long
tight jacket, secured at the waist by a broad girdle, loose short
trousers which terminate at the knee, and boots and gaiters. Their
heads are shaven, a slight fringe of hair being only left at the
lower part.
Enter page number
PreviousNext
Page 89 of 218
Words from 90336 to 91340
of 222596
