One of the alguazils, when going away, made
an observation respecting the very different manner in which the
Protestants and Catholics keep the Sabbath; the former being in
their own houses reading good books, and the latter abroad in the
bull-ring, seeing the wild bulls tear out the gory bowels of the
poor horses. The bull amphitheatre at Seville is the finest in all
Spain, and is invariably on a Sunday (the only day on which it is
open) filled with applauding multitudes.
I now made preparations for leaving Seville for a few months, my
destination being the coast of Barbary. Antonio, who did not wish
to leave Spain, in which were his wife and children, returned to
Madrid, rejoicing in a handsome gratuity with which I presented
him. As it was my intention to return to Seville, I left my house
and horses in charge of a friend in whom I could confide, and
departed. The reasons which induced me to visit Barbary will be
seen in the following chapters.
CHAPTER L
Night on the Guadalquivir - Gospel Light - Bonanza - Strand of San
Lucar - Andalusian Scenery - History of a Chest - Cosas de los
Ingleses - The Two Gypsies - The Driver - The Red Nightcap - The Steam
Boat - Christian Language.
On the night of the 31st of July I departed from Seville upon my
expendition, going on board one of the steamers which ply on the
Guadalquivir between Seville and Cadiz.
