"Then I Had Better
Take My Own," Said I, And Returned To The Posada.
In the evening I
went again, when I saw him.
He was a short bulky man about thirty,
and received me at first with some degree of bluntness; his manner,
however, presently became more kind, and at last he scarcely
appeared to know how to show me sufficient civility. His brother
had just arrived from Santander, and to him he introduced me. This
last was a highly-intelligent person, and had passed many years of
his life in England. They both insisted upon showing me the town,
and, indeed, led me all over it, and about the neighbourhood. I
particularly admired the cathedral, a light, elegant, but ancient
Gothic edifice. Whilst we walked about the aisles, the evening
sun, pouring its mellow rays through the arched windows, illumined
some beautiful paintings of Murillo, with which the sacred edifice
is adorned. From the church my friends conducted me to a fulling
mill in the neighbourhood, by a picturesque walk. There was no
lack either of trees or water, and I remarked, that the environs of
Palencia were amongst the most pleasant places that I had ever
seen.
Tired at last with rambling, we repaired to a coffee-house, where
they regaled me with chocolate and sweet-meats. Such was their
hospitality; and of hospitality of this simple and agreeable kind
there is much in Spain.
On the next day we pursued our journey, a dreary one, for the most
part, over bleak and barren plains, interspersed with silent and
cheerless towns and villages, which stood at the distance of two or
three leagues from each other.
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