At The Time I Would Have Desired No Better Fate Than
That Of A Shepherd On The Prairies, Or A Hunter In The Hills Of
Bembibre.
Three hours passed away and we were in another situation.
We had
halted and refreshed ourselves and horses at Bembibre, a village of
mud and slate, and which possessed little to attract attention: we
were now ascending, for the road was over one of the extreme ledges
of those frontier hills which I have before so often mentioned; but
the aspect of heaven had blackened, clouds were rolling rapidly
from the west over the mountains, and a cold wind was moaning
dismally. "There is a storm travelling through the air," said a
peasant, whom we overtook, mounted on a wretched mule; "and the
Asturians had better be on the lookout, for it is speeding in their
direction." He had scarce spoken, when a light, so vivid and
dazzling that it seemed as if the whole lustre of the fiery element
were concentrated in it, broke around us, filling the whole
atmosphere, and covering rock, tree and mountain with a glare not
to be described. The mule of the peasant tumbled prostrate, while
the horse I rode reared himself perpendicularly, and turning round,
dashed down the hill at headlong speed, which for some time it was
impossible to cheek. The lightning was followed by a peal almost
as terrible, but distant, for it sounded hollow and deep; the
hills, however, caught up its voice, seemingly repeating it from
summit to summit, till it was lost in interminable space. Other
flashes and peals succeeded, but slight in comparison, and a few
drops of rain descended. The body of the tempest seemed to be over
another region. "A hundred families are weeping where that bolt
fell," said the peasant when I rejoined him, "for its blaze has
blinded my mule at six leagues' distance." He was leading the
animal by the bridle, as its sight was evidently affected. "Were
the friars still in their nest above there," he continued, "I
should say that this was their doing, for they are the cause of all
the miseries of the land."
I raised my eyes in the direction in which he pointed. Half way up
the mountain, over whose foot we were wending, jutted forth a black
frightful crag, which at an immense altitude overhung the road, and
seemed to threaten destruction. It resembled one of those ledges
of the rocky mountains in the picture of the Deluge, up to which
the terrified fugitives have scrambled from the eager pursuit of
the savage and tremendous billows, and from whence they gaze down
in horror, whilst above them rise still higher and giddier heights,
to which they seem unable to climb. Built on the very edge of this
crag, stood an edifice, seemingly devoted to the purposes of
religion, as I could discern the spire of a church rearing itself
high over wall and roof. "That is the house of the Virgin of the
Rocks," said the peasant, "and it was lately full of friars, but
they have been thrust out, and the only inmates now are owls and
ravens." I replied, that their life in such a bleak exposed abode
could not have been very enviable, as in winter they must have
incurred great risk of perishing with cold.
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