We however
journeyed on cheerfully, for the sun was once more shining in full
brightness, gilding the wild moors, and shining upon the waters of
the distant sea, which lay in unruffled calmness.
At evening fall we were in the neighbourhood of the shore, with a
range of wood-covered hills on our right. Our guide led us towards
a creek bordered by a marsh, but he soon stopped and declared that
he did not know whither he was conducting us.
"Mon maitre," said Antonio, "let us be our own guides; it is, as
you see, of no use to depend upon this fellow, whose whole science
consists in leading people into quagmires."
We therefore turned aside and proceeded along the marsh for a
considerable distance, till we reached a narrow path which led us
into a thick wood, where we soon became completely bewildered. On
a sudden, after wandering about a considerable time, we heard the
noise of water, and presently the clack of a wheel. Following the
sound, we arrived at a low stone mill, built over a brook; here we
stopped and shouted, but no answer was returned. "The place is
deserted," said Antonio; "here, however, is a path, which, if we
follow it, will doubtless lead us to some human habitation." So we
went along the path, which, in about ten minutes, brought us to the
door of a cabin, in which we saw lights. Antonio dismounted and
opened the door: "Is there any one here who can conduct us to
Rivadeo?" he demanded.
"Senhor," answered a voice, "Rivadeo is more than five leagues from
here, and, moreover, there is a river to cross!"
"Then to the next village," continued Antonio.
"I am a vecino of the next village, which is on the way to
Rivadeo," said another voice, "and I will lead you thither, if you
will give me fair words, and, what is better, fair money."
A man now came forth, holding in his hand a large stick. He strode
sturdily before us, and in less than half an hour led us out of the
wood. In another half hour he brought us to a group of cabins
situated near the sea; he pointed to one of these, and having
received a peseta, bade us farewell.
The people of the cottage willingly consented to receive us for the
night: it was much more cleanly and commodious than the wretched
huts of the Gallegan peasantry in general. The ground floor
consisted of a keeping room and stable, whilst above was a long
loft, in which were some neat and comfortable flock beds. I
observed several masts and sails of boats. The family consisted of
two brothers with their wives and families; one was a fisherman,
but the other, who appeared to be the principal person, informed me
that he had resided for many years in service at Madrid, and having
amassed a small sum, he had at length returned to his native
village, where he had purchased some land which he farmed. All the
family used the Castilian language in their common discourse, and
on inquiry I learned that the Gallegan was not much spoken in that
neighbourhood. I have forgotten the name of this village, which is
situated on the estuary of the Foz, which rolls down from
Mondonedo. In the morning we crossed this estuary in a large boat
with our horses, and about noon arrived at Rivadeo.
"Now, your worship," said the guide who had accompanied us from
Ferrol, "I have brought you as far as I bargained, and a hard
journey it has been; I therefore hope you will suffer Perico and
myself to remain here to-night at your expense, and to-morrow we
will go back; at present we are both sorely tired."
"I never mounted a better pony than Perico," said I, "and never met
with a worse guide than yourself. You appear to be perfectly
ignorant of the country, and have done nothing but bring us into
difficulties. You may, however, stay here for the night, as you
say you are tired, and to-morrow you may return to Ferrol, where I
counsel you to adopt some other trade." This was said at the door
of the posada of Rivadeo.
"Shall I lead the horses to a stable?" said the fellow.
"As you please," said I.
Antonio looked after him for a moment, as he was leading the
animals away, and then shaking his head followed slowly after. In
about a quarter of an hour he returned, laden with the furniture of
our own horse, and with a smile upon his countenance: "Mon
maitre," said he, "I have throughout the journey had a bad opinion
of this fellow, and now I have detected him: his motive in
requesting permission to stay, was a desire to purloin something
from us. He was very officious in the stable about our horse, and
I now miss the new leathern girth which secured the saddle, and
which I observed him looking at frequently on the road. He has by
this time doubtless hid it somewhere; we are quite secure of him,
however, for he has not yet received the hire for the pony, nor the
gratuity for himself."
The guide returned just as he had concluded speaking. Dishonesty
is always suspicious. The fellow cast a glance upon us, and
probably beholding in our countenances something which he did not
like, he suddenly said, "Give me the horse-hire and my own propina,
for Perico and I wish to be off instantly."
"How is this?" said I; "I thought you and Perico were both
fatigued, and wished to rest here for the night; you have soon
recovered from your weariness."
"I have thought over the matter," said the fellow, "and my master
will be angry if I loiter here:
