A Man, Evidently In A State Of
Intoxication, Followed Him To The Door:
"Are you bound for
Finisterra, Cavalheiros?" he shouted.
"Yes, my friend," I replied, "we are going thither."
"Then you are going amongst a flock of drunkards (fato de
barrachos)," he answered. "Take care that they do not play you a
trick."
We passed on, and striking across a sandy peninsula at the back of
the town, soon reached the shore of an immense bay, the north-
westernmost end of which was formed by the far-famed cape of
Finisterra, which we now saw before us stretching far into the sea.
Along a beach of dazzling white sand, we advanced towards the cape,
the bourne of our journey. The sun was shining brightly, and every
object was illumined by his beams. The sea lay before us like a
vast mirror, and the waves which broke upon the shore were so tiny
as scarcely to produce a murmur. On we sped along the deep winding
bay, overhung by gigantic hills and mountains. Strange
recollections began to throng upon my mind. It was upon this beach
that, according to the tradition of all ancient Christendom, Saint
James, the patron saint of Spain, preached the Gospel to the
heathen Spaniards. Upon this beach had once stood an immense
commercial city, the proudest in all Spain. This now desolate bay
had once resounded with the voices of myriads, when the keels and
commerce of all the then known world were wafted to Duyo.
"What is the name of this village?" said I to a woman, as we passed
by five or six ruinous houses at the bend of the bay, ere we
entered upon the peninsula of Finisterra.
"This is no village," said the Gallegan, "this is no village, Sir
Cavalier, this is a city, this is Duyo."
So much for the glory of the world! These huts were all that the
roaring sea and the tooth of time had left of Duyo, the great city!
Onward now to Finisterra.
It was midday when we reached the village of Finisterra, consisting
of about one hundred houses, and built on the southern side of the
peninsula, just before it rises into the huge bluff head which is
called the Cape. We sought in vain for an inn or venta, where we
might stable our beast; at one moment we thought that we had found
one, and had even tied the animal to the manger. Upon our going
out, however, he was instantly untied and driven forth into the
street. The few people whom we saw appeared to gaze upon us in a
singular manner. We, however, took little notice of these
circumstances, and proceeded along the straggling street until we
found shelter in the house of a Castilian shopkeeper, whom some
chance had brought to this corner of Galicia, - this end of the
world. Our first care was to feed the animal, who now began to
exhibit considerable symptoms of fatigue. We then requested some
refreshment for ourselves; and in about an hour a tolerably savoury
fish, weighing about three pounds, and fresh from the bay, was
prepared for us by an old woman who appeared to officiate as
housekeeper. Having finished our meal, I and my uncouth companion
went forth and prepared to ascend the mountain.
We stopped to examine a small dismantled fort or battery facing the
bay; and whilst engaged in this examination, it more than once
occurred to me that we were ourselves the objects of scrutiny and
investigation: indeed I caught a glimpse of more than one
countenance peering upon us through the holes and chasms of the
walls. We now commenced ascending Finisterra; and making numerous
and long detours, we wound our way up its flinty sides. The sun
had reached the top of heaven, whence he showered upon us
perpendicularly his brightest and fiercest rays. My boots were
torn, my feet cut, and the perspiration streamed from my brow. To
my guide, however, the ascent appeared to be neither toilsome nor
difficult. The heat of the day for him had no terrors, no moisture
was wrung from his tanned countenance; he drew not one short
breath; and hopped upon the stones and rocks with all the provoking
agility of a mountain goat. Before we had accomplished one half of
the ascent, I felt myself quite exhausted. I reeled and staggered.
"Cheer up, master mine, be of good cheer, and have no care," said
the guide. "Yonder I see a wall of stones; lie down beneath it in
the shade." He put his long and strong arm round my waist, and
though his stature compared with mine was that of a dwarf, he
supported me, as if I had been a child, to a rude wall which seemed
to traverse the greatest part of the hill, and served probably as a
kind of boundary. It was difficult to find a shady spot: at last
he perceived a small chasm, perhaps scooped by some shepherd as a
couch, in which to enjoy his siesta. In this he laid me gently
down, and taking off his enormous hat, commenced farming me with
great assiduity. By degrees I revived, and after having rested for
a considerable time, I again attempted the ascent, which, with the
assistance of my guide, I at length accomplished.
We were now standing at a great altitude between two bays: the
wilderness of waters before us. Of all the ten thousand barks
which annually plough those seas in sight of that old cape, not one
was to be descried. It was a blue shiny waste, broken by no object
save the black head of a spermaceti whale, which would occasionally
show itself at the top, casting up thin jets of brine. The
principal bay, that of Finisterra, as far as the entrance, was
beautifully variegated by an immense shoal of sardinhas, on whose
extreme skirts the monster was probably feasting. From the
northern side of the cape we looked down upon a smaller bay, the
shore of which was overhung by rocks of various and grotesque
shapes; this is called the outer bay, or, in the language of the
country, Praia do mar de fora:
Enter page number
PreviousNext
Page 119 of 218
Words from 120867 to 121905
of 222596
