It Was Impossible To Follow That Line Exactly, But One Could Average
It Closely Enough By Following The High Road Down The Mountain Through
Belfort To A Swiss Town Called Porrentruy Or Portrut - So Far One Was A
Little To The West Of The Direct Line.
From Portrut, by picking one's way through forests, up steep banks,
over open downs, along mule paths, and so forth, one could cross the
first ridge called the 'Terrible Hill', and so reach the profound
gorge of the river Doubs, and a town called St Ursanne.
From St
Ursanne, by following a mountain road and then climbing some rocks and
tracking through a wood, one could get straight over the second ridge
to Glovelier. From Glovelier a highroad took one through a gap to
Undervelier and on to a town called Moutier or Munster. Then from
Munster, the road, still following more or less the line to Rome but
now somewhat to the east of it, went on southward till an abrupt turn
in it forced one to leave it. Then there was another rough climb by a
difficult path up over the last ridge, called the Weissenstein, and
from its high edge and summit it was but a straight fall of a mile or
two on to Soleure.
So much my map told me, and this mixture of roads and paths and rock
climbs that I had planned out, I exactly followed, so as to march on
as directly as possible towards Rome, which was my goal. For if I had
not so planned it, but had followed the highroads, I should have been
compelled to zig-zag enormously for days, since these ridges of the
Jura are but little broken, and the roads do not rise above the
crests, but follow the parallel valleys, taking advantage only here
and there of the rare gaps to pass from one to another.
Here is a sketch of the way I went, where my track is a white line,
and the round spots in it are the towns and villages whose names are
written at the side. In this sketch the plains and low valleys are
marked dark, and the crests of the mountains left white. The shading
is lighter according to the height, and the contour lines (which are
very far from accurate) represent, I suppose, about a thousand feet
between each, or perhaps a little more; and as for the distance, from
the Ballon d'Alsace to Soleure might be two long days' march on a flat
road, but over mountains and up rocks it was all but three, and even
that was very good going. My first stage was across the plain of
Belfort, and I had determined to sleep that night in Switzerland.
I wandered down the mountain. A little secret path, one of many, saved
me the long windings of the road. It followed down the central hollow
of the great cleft and accompanied the stream. All the way for miles
the water tumbled in fall after fall over a hundred steps of rock, and
its noise mixed with the freshness of the air, and its splashing
weighted the overhanging branches of the trees.
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