The 9th January, 1611, I departed from Agra for Lahore, to recover some
debts, and carried with me twelve carts laden with indigo, in hopes of a
good price.[246] In seven days journey, I arrived at Delhi, eighty-one
coss from Agra.
On the left hand is seen the ruins of old Delhi,[247]
called the Seven Castles and Fifty-two Gates, now only inhabited by
Gogars, or cattle herds. A short way from Delhi is a stone bridge of
eleven arches, over a branch of the Jumna, whence a broad way, shaded on
each side with great trees, leads to the tomb of Humaion, grandfather of
the present king. In a large room spread with rich carpets, this tomb is
covered by a pure white sheet, and has over it a rich semiane, or
canopy. In front are certain books on small tressels, beside which stand
his sword, turban, and shoes; and at the entrance are the tombs of his
wives and daughters. Beyond this, under a similar shaded road, you come
to the king's house and moholl, now ruinous. The city is two coss in
extent, between gate and gate, being surrounded by a wall which has been
strong, but is now ruinous, as are many goodly houses. Within and around
the city, are the tombs of twenty Patan kings, all very fair and
stately. All the kings of India are here crowned, otherwise they are
held usurpers. Delhi is situated in a fine plain; and about two coss
from thence are the ruins of a hunting seat, or mole, built by Sultan
Bemsa, a great Indian sovereign. It still contains much curious
stone-work; and above all the rest is seen a stone pillar, which, after
passing through three several stories, rises twenty-four feet above them
all, having on the top a globe, surmounted by a crescent. It is said
that this stone stands as much below in the earth as it rises above, and
is placed below in water, being all one stone. Some say Naserdengady, a
Patan king, wanted to take it up, but was prevented by a multitude of
scorpions. It has inscriptions.[248] In divers parts of India the like
are to be seen.
[Footnote 246: It has not been deemed necessary to retain the itinerary
of this journey, consisting of a long enumeration of the several stages
and distances, the names of which are often unintelligible. Any
circumstances of importance are however retained. - E.]
[Footnote 247: There are said to be four Delhis within five coss. The
oldest was built by Rase; who, by advice of his magicians, tried the
ground by driving an iron stake, which came up bloody, having wounded a
snake. This the ponde or magician said was a fortunate sign. The last
of this race was Rase Pethory; who, after seven times taking a Patan
king, was at last by him taken and slain. He began the Patan kingdom of
Delhi. The Patans came from the mountains between Candahar and Cabul.
The second Delhi was built by Togall Shah, a Patan king. The third
was of little note. The fourth by Sher-shah-selim, and in it is the
tomb of Humaion. - Purchas.]
[Footnote 248: Purchas alleges that these inscriptions are in Greek and
Hebrew and that some affirm it was erected by Alexander the Great - E.]
It is remarkable, that the quarries of India, and especially those near
Futtipoor, are of such a nature that the rock may be cleft like logs,
and sawn like planks of great length and breadth, so as to form the
ceilings of rooms and the roofs of houses. From this monument, which is
two coss from Delhi, there is said to be a subterraneous passage all the
way to Delhi castle. This place is now all in ruins, and abounds in
deer. From Delhi, in nine stages, I reached Sirinam, or Sirhind, where
is a fair tank with a pleasure-house in the middle, to which leads a
stone bridge of fifteen arches. From thence is a canal to a royal
garden, at the distance of a coss, with a paved road forty feet broad,
overshaded by trees on both sides. This garden is square, each side a
coss or more in length, enclosed with a brick wall, richly planted with
all kinds of fruits and flowers, and was rented, as I was told, at
40,000 rupees. It is crossed by two main walks forty feet broad, raised
on mounds eight feet high, having water in the middle in stone channels,
and thickly planted on both sides with cypress trees. At the crossing of
these walks is an octagon moholl, with eight chambers for women, and a
fair tank in the middle, over which are other eight rooms, with fair
galleries all round. The whole of this building is of stone, curiously
wrought, with much fine painting, rich carving, and stucco work, and
splendid gilding. On two sides are two other fine tanks, in the midst of
a fair stone chounter? planted round with cypress trees; and at a
little distance is another moholl, but not so curious.
From Sirhind, in five stages, making forty-eight coss, I came to a
serai called Fetipoor, built by the present king Shah Selim, in memory
of the overthrow of his eldest son, Sultan Cussero, on the following
occasion. On some disgust, Shah Selim took up arms in the life of his
father Akbar, and fled into Purrop, where he kept the strong castle of
Alobasse,[249] but came in and submitted about three months before his
father's death. Akbar had disinherited Selim for his rebellion, giving
the kingdom to Sultan Cussero, Selim's eldest son. But after the death
of Akbar, Selim, by means of his friends, got possession of the castle
and treasure. Cussero fled to Lahore, where he raised about 12,000
horse, all good Mogul soldiers, and getting possession of the suburbs,
was then proclaimed king, while his father was proclaimed in the castle.
After twelve days came Melek Ali the Cutwall against him, beating the
king's drums, though Selim was some twenty coss in the rear; and giving
a brave assault, shouting God save King Selim, the prince's soldiers
lost heart and fled, leaving only five attendants with the prince, who
fled and got thirty coss beyond Lahore, in his way to Cabul.
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