A Second Gate Leads To
Boorbanpoor; And A Third To Nonsary,[232] A Town Ten Coss From Surat,
Where Much Calico Is Manufactured, Standing Near A Fine Stream Or Small
River.
About ten coss farther in the same direction is Gondoree,
[Gundavee,] and a little further Belsaca, [Bulsaur,] the frontier town
towards Damaun.
Just without Nunsary gate is a handsome tank of
sixteen sides, surrounded on all sides by stone steps, three quarters
of an English mile in circuit, and having a small house in the middle.
On the farther side of this tank are several fine tombs with a handsome
paved court, behind which is a small grove of Mango trees, to which the
citizens resort to banquet. About half a coss beyond this, is a great
tree much venerated by the Banians, who alledge that it is under the
protection of a dew, or guardian spirit, and that although often cut
down and grubbed up from the roots by order of the Moors, it has yet
constantly sprung up again.
[Footnote 230: This depth probably refers to the anchorage below the
bar. - E.]
[Footnote 231: Masulipatam, or, more correctly, Mutshelipatnam, is at
the mouth of the Kistna, on the opposite coast of India. - E.]
[Footnote 232: Nunsary is a small river, with a town of the same name,
16 or 18 miles south of the Taptee. - E.]
Near the castle of Surat is the Alphandica, where are stairs down to
the river for landing and shipping goods, and within the alphandica are
store-rooms for keeping goods till they are cleared; the customs being
two and a half per centum for goods, three for provisions, and two for
money. Without the gate of the alphandica is the great Gondoree or
Bazar, being the market-place for all kinds of merchandize. Right
before this gate is a tree with an arbour, where the fokeers,
[faquiers,] or Indian holy men, sit in state. Between this and the
castle, at the entrance of the green, or atmeidan, is the market for
horses and cattle. A little lower, and on the opposite side of the
river, is a pleasant small town named Ranele, inhabited by a people
called Naites, who speak a different language, and are mostly seamen.
The streets of this town are narrow, with good houses, each of which has
a high flight of steps to its door. The people are very friendly to the
English, and have many pleasant gardens, which attract many to pass much
of their time there. On the trees round this village there are an
infinite number of those great bats we saw at St Augustine in
Madagascar, which hang by their claws from the boughs, and make a shrill
noise. This bird is said by the people to engender by the ear, and to
give suck to their young.
The winter begins here about the 1st of June, and continues till the
20th September, but not with continual rains as at Goa; having only
heavy rain for six or seven days every full and change of the moon, with
much wind, thunder and lightning. At the breaking up of the winter,
there is always a cruel storm, called tuffoon, fearful even to men on
land. This is not equally severe every year, but once in two or three
years at the most. The monsoons, or periodical winds, serve here for
going to the south in April and September, and for Mocha in February and
March. From the south, ships come here in December, January, and
February, and from Mocha about the 5th September, after the rains. From
Ormus they sail for the coast of India in November: But none dare pass
without a licence of the Portuguese, for which they exact whatever they
think proper, erecting, by their own authority, a custom-house on the
seas, confiscating both ship and goods to the taker, if they do not
produce a regular pass.
Sec. 4. Journey to Agra, and Observations by the Way; with some Notices of
the Deccan Wars.
The 18th January, 1610,[233] I departed from Comuariaw, or Cumraie, a
small village 3 coss from Surat, to Mutta, a great aldea, 7 coss.
The 21st to Carode, 8 coss, a large country town, having the Surat
river on the north. This place has a castle, with a garrison of 200
Patan horse, who are good soldiers. The 22d to Curka, 12 c. a great
village with a river on its south side. In the way between Carode and
Curka, or Kirkwah, is Beca, or Behara, a castle with a great tank and
a pleasant grove. 23d to Necampore, a large town under the
Pectopshaw, 10 c. In this way begins a great ridge of mountains on the
right hand,[234] reaching towards Ahmedabad, among which Badur occupies
several strong-holds, which all the force of the king of the Moguls has
not been able to reduce. These mountains extend to Boorhanpoor, and on
them breed many wild elephants. The 24th to Dayta, 8 c. a great town,
having to pass in the midway a troublesome stony rivulet. This town has
a castle, and is almost encompassed by a river, being situated in a
fertile soil. The 25th to Badur, 10 c. a filthy town full of thieves,
where is made a kind of wine of a sweet fruit called mewa, but I found
it unwholesome except it be burnt.
[Footnote 233: In this journal, conjectural emendations of names from
Arrowsmith's excellent map of India, are given in the text as synonima,
to avoid perpetual notes; and the distances are always to be understood
as cosses, given exactly as in the original, without correction. It
must, however, be noticed that the names in the text are often so
corrupt, or different from those now in use, that it is often impossible
to trace the route. - E.]
[Footnote 234: The Vindhaya mountains are obviously here meant; but they
are on the left hand of the route between Surat and Boorhanpoor.
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