The Buckrams of Arzinga are mentioned both by Pegolotti (circa 1340) and
by Giov. d'Uzzano (1442). But what were they?
Buckram in the modern sense is a coarse open texture of cotton or hemp,
loaded with gum, and used to stiffen certain articles of dress. But this
was certainly not the mediaeval sense. Nor is it easy to bring the
mediaeval uses of the term under a single explanation. Indeed Mr. Marsh
suggests that probably two different words have coalesced. Fr.-Michel says
that Bouqueran was at first applied to a light cotton stuff of the
nature of muslin, and afterwards to linen, but I do not see that he
makes out this history of the application. Douet d'Arcq, in his Comptes
de l'Argenterie, etc., explains the word simply in the modern sense, but
there seems nothing in his text to bear this out.
A quotation in Raynouard's Romance Dictionary has "Vestirs de polpra e
de bisso que est bocaran," where Raynouard renders bisso as lin; a
quotation in Ducange also makes Buckram the equivalent of Bissus; and
Michel quotes from an inventory of 1365, "unam culcitram pinctam (qu.
punctam?) albam factam de bisso aliter boquerant."
Mr. Marsh again produces quotations, in which the word is used as a
proverbial example of whiteness, and inclines to think that it was a
bleached cloth with a lustrous surface.