The Approximate Height Of The Pass
Above The Sea Is Estimated At 8000 Feet.
We have thus
for the descent the greater part of .
. . . 2
3. "Clumps of date-palms growing near the village showed
that I had now reached a totally different climate."
(Smith's Report.) And Mr. Abbott says of the same
region: "Partly wooded ... and with thickets of reeds
abounding with francolin and Jirufti partridge....
The lands yield grain, millet, pulse, French- and
horse-beans, rice, cotton, henna, Palma Christi, and dates,
and in part are of great fertility.... Rainy season from
January to March, after which a luxuriant crop of grass."
Across this plain (districts of Jiruft and Rudbar), the
height of which above the sea, is something under 2000
feet . . . . . . . . . . . 6
4. 6-1/2 hours, "nearly the whole way over a most difficult
mountain-pass," called the Pass of Nevergun . . . 1
5. Two long marches over a plain, part of which is described
as "continuous cultivation for some 16 miles," and the rest
as a "most uninteresting plain" . . . . . 2
-
Total as before . . . . 17
In the previous edition of this work I was inclined to identify Marco's
route absolutely with this Itinerary. But a communication from Major St.
John, who surveyed the section from Kerman towards Deh Bakri in 1872,
shows that this first section does not answer well to the description. The
road is not all plain, for it crosses a mountain pass, though not a
formidable one. Neither is it through a thriving, populous tract, for,
with the exception of two large villages, Major St. John found the whole
road to Deh Bakri from Kerman as desert and dreary as any in Persia. On
the other hand, the more direct route to the south, which is that always
used except in seasons of extraordinary severity (such as that of Major
Smith's journey, when this route was impassable from snow), answers
better, as described to Major St. John by muleteers, to Polo's account.
The first six days are occupied by a gentle ascent through the districts
of Bardesir and Kairat-ul-Arab, which are the best-watered and most
fertile uplands of Kerman. From the crest of the pass reached in those six
marches (which is probably more than 10,000 feet above the sea, for it was
closed by snow on 1st May, 1872), an easy descent of two days leads to
the Garmsir. This is traversed in four days, and then a very difficult
pass is crossed to reach the plains bordering on the sea. The cold of this
route is much greater than that of the Deh Bakri route. Hence the
correspondence with Polo's description, as far as the descent to the
Garmsir, or Reobarles, seems decidedly better by this route. It is
admitted to be quite possible that on reaching this plain the two routes
coalesced. We shall assume this provisionally, till some traveller gives
us a detailed account of the Bardesir route. Meantime all the remaining
particulars answer well.
[General Houtum-Schindler (l.c. pp. 493-495), speaking of the Itinerary
from Kerman to Hormuz and back, says: "Only two of the many routes between
Kerman and Bender 'Abbas coincide more or less with Marco Polo's
description. These two routes are the one over the Deh Bekri Pass [see
above, Colonel Smith], and the one via Sardu. The latter is the one, I
think, taken by Marco Polo. The more direct roads to the west are for the
greater part through mountainous country, and have not twelve stages in
plains which we find enumerated in Marco Polo's Itinerary. The road via
Baft, Urzu, and the Zendan Pass, for instance, has only four stages in
plains; the road, via Rahbur, Rudbar and the Nevergun Pass only six; and
the road via Sirjan also only six."
Marches.
The Sardu route, which seems to me to be the one
followed by Marco Polo, has five stages through fertile
and populous plains to Sarvizan . . . . . 5
One day's march ascends to the top of the Sarvizan Pass 1
Two days' descent to Rahjird, a village close to the
ruins of old Jiruft, now called Shehr-i-Daqianus . . 2
Six days' march over the "vast plain" of Jiruft and Rudbar
to Fariab, joining the Deh Bekri route at Kerimabad, one
stage south of the Shehr-i-Daqianus . . . . 6
One day's march through the Nevergun Pass to Shamil,
descending . . . . . . . . . 1
Two days' march through the plain to Bender 'Abbas or
Hormuz . . . . . . . . . . 2
-
In all . . . . . . 17
The Sardu road enters the Jiruft plain at the ruins of the old city, the
Deh Bekri route does so at some distance to the eastward. The first six
stages performed by Marco Polo in seven days go through fertile plains and
past numerous villages. Regarding the cold, "which you can scarcely
abide," Marco Polo does not speak of it as existing on the mountains only;
he says, "From the city of Kerman to this descent the cold in winter is
very great," that is, from Kerman to near Jiruft. The winter at Kerman
itself is fairly severe; from the town the ground gradually but steadily
rises, the absolute altitudes of the passes crossing the mountains to the
south varying from 8000 to 11,000 feet. These passes are up to the month
of March always very cold; in one it froze slightly in the beginning of
June. The Sardu Pass lies lower than the others. The name is Sardu, not
Sardu from sard, "cold." Major Sykes (Persia, ch. xxiii.) comes to the
same conclusion: "In 1895, and again in 1900, I made a tour partly with
the object of solving this problem, and of giving a geographical existence
to Sardu, which appropriately means the 'Cold Country.' I found that there
was a route which exactly fitted Marco's conditions, as at Sarbizan the
Sardu plateau terminates in a high pass of 9200 feet, from which there is
a most abrupt descent to the plain of Jiruft, Komadin being about 35
miles, or two days' journey from the top of the pass.
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