Now, Then, I Am Going To Tell You About The Countries Towards The North,
Of Which You Shall Hear In Regular Order.
Let us begin.
NOTE 1. - Having now arrived at HORMUZ, it is time to see what can be made
of the Geography of the route from Kerman to that port.
The port of Hormuz, [which had taken the place of Kish as the most
important market of the Persian Gulf (H. C.)], stood upon the mainland. A
few years later it was transferred to the island which became so famous,
under circumstances which are concisely related by Abulfeda: - "Hormuz is
the port of Kerman, a city rich in palms, and very hot. One who has
visited it in our day tells me that the ancient Hormuz was devastated by
the incursions of the Tartars, and that its people transferred their abode
to an island in the sea called Zarun, near the continent, and lying west
of the old city. At Hormuz itself no inhabitants remain, but some of the
lowest order." (In Buesching, IV. 261-262.) Friar Odoric, about 1321,
found Hormuz "on an island some 5 miles distant from the main." Ibn
Batuta, some eight or nine years later, discriminates between Hormuz or
Moghistan on the mainland, and New Hormuz on the Island of Jeraun, but
describes only the latter, already a great and rich city.
The site of the Island Hormuz has often been visited and described; but I
could find no published trace of any traveller having verified the site of
the more ancient city, though the existence of its ruins was known to John
de Barros, who says that a little fort called Cuxstac (Kuhestek of P.
della Valle, II. p. 300) stood on the site. An application to Colonel
Pelly, the very able British Resident at Bushire, brought me from his own
personal knowledge the information that I sought, and the following
particulars are compiled from the letters with which he has favoured me: -
"The ruins of Old Hormuz, well known as such, stand several miles up a
creek, and in the centre of the present district of Minao. They are
extensive (though in large part obliterated by long cultivation over the
site), and the traces of a long pier or Bandar were pointed out to Colonel
Pelly. They are about 6 or 7 miles from the fort of Minao, and the Minao
river, or its stony bed, winds down towards them. The creek is quite
traceable, but is silted up, and to embark goods you have to go a farsakh
towards the sea, where there is a custom-house on that part of the creek
which is still navigable. Colonel Pelly collected a few bricks from the
ruins. From the mouth of the Old Hormuz creek to the New Hormuz town, or
town of Turumpak on the island of Hormuz, is a sail of about three
farsakhs. It may be a trifle more, but any native tells you at once that
it is three farsakhs from Hormuz Island to the creek where you land to go
up to Minao. Hormuzdia was the name of the region in the days of its
prosperity. Some people say that Hormuzdia was known as Jerunia, and Old
Hormuz town as Jerun." (In this I suspect tradition has gone astray.)
"The town and fort of Minao lie to the N.E. of the ancient city, and are
built upon the lowest spur of the Bashkurd mountains, commanding a gorge
through which the Rudbar river debouches on the plain of Hormuzdia." In
these new and interesting particulars it is pleasing to find such precise
corroboration both of Edrisi and of Ibn Batuta. The former, writing in the
12th century, says that Hormuz stood on the banks of a canal or creek from
the Gulf, by which vessels came up to the city. The latter specifies the
breadth of sea between Old and New Hormuz as three farsakhs. (Edrisi,
I. 424; I. B. II. 230.)
I now proceed to recapitulate the main features of Polo's Itinerary from
Kerman to Hormuz. We have: -
Marches
1. From Kerman across a plain to the top of a
mountain-pass, where extreme cold was
experienced . . . . . . . . 7
2. A descent, occupying . . . . . . . 2
3. A great plain, called Reobarles, in a much warmer
climate, abounding in francolin partridge, and in
dates and tropical fruit, with a ruined city of former
note, called Camadi, near the head of the plain,
which extends for . . . . . . . . 5
4. A second very bad pass, descending for 20 miles, say 1
5. A well-watered fruitful plain, which is crossed to
Hormuz, on the shores of the Gulf . . . . 2
-
Total 17
No European traveller, so far as I know, has described the most direct
road from Kerman to Hormuz, or rather to its nearest modern representative
Bander Abbasi, - I mean the road by Baft. But a line to the eastward of
this, and leading through the plain of Jiruft, was followed partially by
Mr. Abbott in 1850, and completely by Major R. M. Smith, R.E., in 1866.
The details of this route, except in one particular, correspond closely in
essentials with those given by our author, and form an excellent basis of
illustration for Polo's description.
Major Smith (accompanied at first by Colonel Goldsmid, who diverged to
Mekran) left Kerman on the 15th of January, and reached Bander Abbasi on
the 3rd of February, but, as three halts have to be deducted, his total
number of marches was exactly the same as Marco's, viz. 17. They divide as
follows: -
Marches
1. From Kerman to the caravanserai of Deh Bakri in the
pass so called. "The ground as I ascended became
covered with snow, and the weather bitterly cold"
(Report) . . . . . . . . . 6
2. Two miles over very deep snow brought him to the
top of the pass; he then descended 14 miles to his halt.
Two miles to the south of the crest he passed a second
caravanserai: "The two are evidently built so near one
another to afford shelter to travellers who may be
unable to cross the ridge during heavy snow-storms."
The next march continued the descent for 14 miles, and
then carried him 10 miles along the banks of the
Rudkhanah-i-Shor.
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