Although my host and charming hostess would have made
any place agreeable, Quetta is, from everything but a strategical
point of view, dull and uninteresting. It is an English garrison town,
and all is said. The usual nucleus of scandal, surrounded by dances,
theatricals, polo, flirtation, drink, and - divorce. Are they not all
alike from Gibraltar to Hong Kong?
Under the guidance of my host, however, a pleasant trip was made to
the Khojak tunnel. When one considers the comparatively short time
it has been in hand, it is almost incredible that, with so many
difficulties (water, hard rock, etc.), this work should have
progressed as it has. The tunnel, which runs due east and west, is,
or will be, two miles and a half in length and three hundred and
sixty-five feet in depth at the deepest part from the earth's surface.
From the eastern end only sixty-five miles over a firm and level plain
separates it from Kandahar. Even when I was there, [D] a light line
could have been laid to that city in six weeks without difficulty. The
plant, rails, and sleepers were on the spot, having been carried over
the hill, and a railway-carriage could then run from Calcutta to the
eastern extremity of the tunnel without break of gauge. The tunnel,
when completed, will be thirty-four feet broad, and twenty-five feet
in height.
A curious incident happened at one of the railway-stations between
Quetta and Karachi. At the buffet of the one in question, I found
Gerome conversing volubly in Russian with a total stranger, a native.
On inquiry I found he was a very old friend, a Russian subject and
native of Samarcand. "He has just come through from Cabul," said my
companion. "He often does this journey" - ostensibly for purposes of
trade.
The 20th of April saw us in Bombay. An Italian steamer, the _Venezia_,
was leaving for the Black Sea direct, and in her I secured a passage
for Gerome, who was not impressed with our Eastern possessions. The
crowd of curious natives who persistently followed him everywhere
may have had something to do with it, for a fur-clad Esquimaux
in Piccadilly would not have created a greater sensation than my
companion in high boots, black velvet breeches, and red caftan in
the busy streets of the great Indian city. Only a Russian could have
existed in that blazing sun with no other protection to the head than
the astrachan bonnet, which he obstinately refused to discard. I saw
him safely on board, and something very like a tear came into my
trusty little friend's eyes, as we shook hands and parted, to meet,
perhaps, never again. For a better companion no man could wish.
Plucky, honest as the day, and tender-hearted as a woman was Gerome
Realini; and it was with a feeling of loneliness and sincere regret
that I watched the grey smoke of the _Venezia_ sink below the blue
waters, which were soon to bear me, also, back to England and European
civilization.
Has the journey been worth it? Has the result repaid one for the cold,
dirt, and privation of Persia, the torrid heat and long desert marches
through Baluchistan? Perhaps not. There are some pleasant hours,
however, to look back upon. Kashan, a vision of golden domes and dim,
picturesque caravanserais; Ispahan, with its stately Madrassa and blue
Zandarood, winding lazily through miles on miles of white and scarlet
poppyland; Shiraz, a dream of fair women, poetry, and roses, in its
setting of emerald plain, sweet-scented gardens, and cypress trees.
These, at any rate, are bright oases in that somewhat dreary ride from
Teheran to the sea. And then - nearing India - the quiet midday siesta
after the hot dusty march; the _al fresco_ repast by the light of a
glorious sunset, and the welcome rest and fragrant pipe in the cool
night air of the silent, starlit desert.
[Footnote A: Parts of this palace are of great antiquity, as it
owes its foundation to the Hindu kings who preceded the Mohammedan
dynasty.]
[Footnote B: The Ameer of Afghanistan.]
[Footnote C: I am not at liberty to give the name of my authority for
these facts. The reader may rely on their authenticity.]
[Footnote D: April, 1889. The boring of the tunnel is now
accomplished.]
APPENDIX A.
LIST OF STATIONS AND DISTANCES FROM RESHT TO
BUSHIRE, PERSIA.
English
Miles.
Resht - -
Koudoum - - - - - - 20
Rustemabad - - - - 20
Menjil - - - - - - - - 12
Patchinar - - - - - - 8
Kharzan - - - - - - - 16
Kazvin - - - - - - - - 24
Kavarek - - - - - - - 16
Kishlak - - - - - - - 16
Yengi-Imam - - - - 16
Hessarek - - - - - 16
Shahabad - - - - - 16
_Teheran_ - - - - - 16
Rabat Kerim - - - - 28
Pitche - - - - - - 24
Kushku Baira - - - 16
Mahometabad - - - 28
_Koom_ - - - - - - - - 16
Pasingan - - - - - - - 16
Sin-sin - - - - - - - - 28
_Kashan_ - - - - - - 24
Khurood - - - - - - 28
Bideshk - - - - - - - 24
Murchakhar - - - - 24
_Gez_ - - - - - - - - - 24
_Ispahan_ - - - - - - 12
Djulfa - - - - - - - - - 3
Carried forward - - - - - - - - - 491
Brought forward - - - - - - - - - 491
Marg - - - - - - - - - 12
Mayar - - - - - - - - - 24
Koomishah - - - - - 20
Magsogh-Beg - - - - 16
Yezdi-Ghazt - - - - - 24
Shoulgistan - - - - - 24
Abadeh - - - - - - - - 20
Sourmah - - - - - - - 16
Khina-Khoreh - - - 28
Deybid - - - - - - - - 20
Mourghab - - - - - - 28
Kawamabad - - - - - 24
Sivand - - - - - - - 8
Poozeh - - - - - - - 16
Zergoon - - - - - - 20
Shiraz - - - - - - - 20
Chinar-Rada - - - 8
Khaneh Zinian - - 24
Dashti Arjin - - - - 12
Meyun Kotal - - - 12
Kazeroon - - - - - 20
Kamarij - - - - - - 24
Konar Takta - - - 12
Dalaki - - - - - - - 12
Borazjun - - - - 16
Sheif - - - - - - - 28
- - - - - -
979
From Sheif to Bushire by sea 7
Total English miles 986
APPENDIX B.
ROUTE - SONMIANI TO QUETTA.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Halting-place. English Remarks.
Miles.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Sonmiani.... | | Small sea-port town.
Water abundant,
but brackish.
Fodder and
supplies
procurable.
Shekh-Raj.... | 18 | Road fairly good.
Water sweet and
plentiful.
Outhal...... | 14 | Road stony and undulating;
crossed dry bed
of river Purali.
Well of brackish
water.
Shekron-ka-Got | 22 | Road sandy. Passed several
salt marshes.
No water.
Beila....... | 24 | Road good through rich
alluvial land
irrigated by
river Purali.
Road near to
Beila intersected
by deep nullahs
distressing to
camels.
