An Italian steamer, the _Venezia_,
was leaving for the Black Sea direct, and in her I secured a passage
for Gerome, who was not impressed with our Eastern possessions. The
crowd of curious natives who persistently followed him everywhere
may have had something to do with it, for a fur-clad Esquimaux
in Piccadilly would not have created a greater sensation than my
companion in high boots, black velvet breeches, and red caftan in
the busy streets of the great Indian city. Only a Russian could have
existed in that blazing sun with no other protection to the head than
the astrachan bonnet, which he obstinately refused to discard. I saw
him safely on board, and something very like a tear came into my
trusty little friend's eyes, as we shook hands and parted, to meet,
perhaps, never again. For a better companion no man could wish.
Plucky, honest as the day, and tender-hearted as a woman was Gerome
Realini; and it was with a feeling of loneliness and sincere regret
that I watched the grey smoke of the _Venezia_ sink below the blue
waters, which were soon to bear me, also, back to England and European
civilization.
Has the journey been worth it? Has the result repaid one for the cold,
dirt, and privation of Persia, the torrid heat and long desert marches
through Baluchistan? Perhaps not. There are some pleasant hours,
however, to look back upon. Kashan, a vision of golden domes and dim,
picturesque caravanserais; Ispahan, with its stately Madrassa and blue
Zandarood, winding lazily through miles on miles of white and scarlet
poppyland; Shiraz, a dream of fair women, poetry, and roses, in its
setting of emerald plain, sweet-scented gardens, and cypress trees.
These, at any rate, are bright oases in that somewhat dreary ride from
Teheran to the sea. And then - nearing India - the quiet midday siesta
after the hot dusty march; the _al fresco_ repast by the light of a
glorious sunset, and the welcome rest and fragrant pipe in the cool
night air of the silent, starlit desert.
[Footnote A: Parts of this palace are of great antiquity, as it
owes its foundation to the Hindu kings who preceded the Mohammedan
dynasty.]
[Footnote B: The Ameer of Afghanistan.]
[Footnote C: I am not at liberty to give the name of my authority for
these facts. The reader may rely on their authenticity.]
[Footnote D: April, 1889. The boring of the tunnel is now
accomplished.]
APPENDIX A.
LIST OF STATIONS AND DISTANCES FROM RESHT TO
BUSHIRE, PERSIA.
English
Miles.
Resht - -
Koudoum - - - - - - 20
Rustemabad - - - - 20
Menjil - - - - - - - - 12
Patchinar - - - - - - 8
Kharzan - - - - - - - 16
Kazvin - - - - - - - - 24
Kavarek - - - - - - - 16
Kishlak - - - - - - - 16
Yengi-Imam - - - - 16
Hessarek - - - - - 16
Shahabad - - - - - 16
_Teheran_ - - - - - 16
Rabat Kerim - - - - 28
Pitche - - - - - - 24
Kushku Baira - - - 16
Mahometabad - - - 28
_Koom_ - - - - - - - - 16
Pasingan - - - - - - - 16
Sin-sin - - - - - - - - 28
_Kashan_ - - - - - - 24
Khurood - - - - - - 28
Bideshk - - - - - - - 24
Murchakhar - - - - 24
_Gez_ - - - - - - - - - 24
_Ispahan_ - - - - - - 12
Djulfa - - - - - - - - - 3
Carried forward - - - - - - - - - 491
Brought forward - - - - - - - - - 491
Marg - - - - - - - - - 12
Mayar - - - - - - - - - 24
Koomishah - - - - - 20
Magsogh-Beg - - - - 16
Yezdi-Ghazt - - - - - 24
Shoulgistan - - - - - 24
Abadeh - - - - - - - - 20
Sourmah - - - - - - - 16
Khina-Khoreh - - - 28
Deybid - - - - - - - - 20
Mourghab - - - - - - 28
Kawamabad - - - - - 24
Sivand - - - - - - - 8
Poozeh - - - - - - - 16
Zergoon - - - - - - 20
Shiraz - - - - - - - 20
Chinar-Rada - - - 8
Khaneh Zinian - - 24
Dashti Arjin - - - - 12
Meyun Kotal - - - 12
Kazeroon - - - - - 20
Kamarij - - - - - - 24
Konar Takta - - - 12
Dalaki - - - - - - - 12
Borazjun - - - - 16
Sheif - - - - - - - 28
- - - - - -
979
From Sheif to Bushire by sea 7
Total English miles 986
APPENDIX B.
