Did We Not
Already Know That Such Taste And Skill Are Compatible With Utter
Barbarism, We Could Hardly Believe That The Same People Are, In
Other Matters, Utterly Wanting In All Sense Of Order, Comfort, Or
Decency.
Yet such is the case.
They live in the most miserable,
crazy, and filthy hovels, which are utterly destitute of anything
that can be called furniture; not a stool, or bench, or board is
seen in them, no brush seems to be known, and the clothes they
wear are often filthy bark, or rags, or sacking. Along the paths
where they daily pass to and from their provision grounds, not an
overhanging bough or straggling briar ever seems to he cut, so
that you have to brush through a rank vegetation, creep under
fallen trees and spiny creepers, and wade through pools of mud
and mire, which cannot dry up because the sun is not allowed to
penetrate. Their food is almost wholly roots and vegetables, with
fish or game only as an occasional luxury, and they are
consequently very subject to various skin diseases, the children
especially being often miserable-looking objects, blotched all
over with eruptions and sores. If these people are not savages,
where shall we find any? Yet they have all a decided love for the
fine arts, and spend their leisure time in executing works whose
good taste and elegance would often be admired in our schools of
design!
During the latter part of my stay in New Guinea the weather was
very wet, my only shooter was ill, and birds became scarce, so
that my only resource was insect-hunting. I worked very hard
every hour of fine weather, and daily obtained a number of new
species. Every dead tree and fallen log was searched and searched
again; and among the dry and rotting leaves, which still hung on
certain trees which had been cut down, I found an abundant
harvest of minute Coleoptera. Although I never afterwards found
so many large and handsome beetles as in Borneo, yet I obtained
here a great variety of species. For the first two or three
weeks, while I was searching out the best localities, I took
about 30 different kinds of beetles n day, besides about half
that number of butterflies, and a few of the other orders. But
afterwards, up to the very last week, I averaged 49 species a
day. On the 31st of May, I took 78 distinct sorts, a larger
number than I had ever captured before, principally obtained
among dead trees and under rotten bark. A good long walk on a
fine day up the hill, and to the plantations of the natives,
capturing everything not very common that came in my way, would
produce about 60 species; but on the last day of June I brought
home no less than 95 distinct kinds of beetles, a larger number
than I ever obtained in one day before or since. It was a fine
hot day, and I devoted it to a search among dead leaves, beating
foliage, and hunting under rotten bark, in all the best stations
I had discovered during my walks. I was out from ten in the
morning till three in the afternoon, and it took me six hours'
work at home to pin and set out all the specimens, and to
separate the species. Although T had already been working this
shot daily for two months and a half, and had obtained over 800
species of Coleoptera, this day's work added 32 new ones. Among
these were 4 Longicorns, 2 Caribidae, 7 Staphylinidae, 7
Curculionidae, 2 Copridae, 4 Chrysomelidae, 3 Heteromera, 1
Elates, and 1 Buprestis. Even on the last day I went out, I
obtained 10 new species; so that although I collected over a
thousand distinct sorts of beetles in a space not much exceeding
a square mile during the three months of my residence at Dorey, I
cannot believe that this represents one half the species really
inhabiting the same spot, or a fourth of what might be obtained
in an area extending twenty miles in each direction.
On the 22d of July the schooner Hester Helena arrived, and five
days afterwards we bade adieu to Dorey, without much regret, for
in no place which I have visited have I encountered more
privations and annoyances. Continual rain, continual sickness,
little wholesome food, with a plague of ants and files,
surpassing anything I had before met with, required all a
naturalist's ardour to encounter; and when they were
uncompensated by great success in collecting, became all the more
insupportable. This long thought-of and much-desired voyage to
New Guinea had realized none of my expectations. Instead of being
far better than the Aru Islands, it was in almost everything much
worse. Instead of producing several of the rarer Paradise birds,
I had not even seen one of them, and had not obtained any one
superlatively fine bird or insect. I cannot deny, however, that
Dorey was very rich in ants. One small black kind was excessively
abundant. Almost every shrub and tree was more or less infested
with it, and its large papery nests were everywhere to be seen.
They immediately took possession of my house, building a large
nest in the roof, and forming papery tunnels down almost every
post. They swarmed on my table as I was at work setting out my
insects, carrying them off from under my very nose, and even
tearing them from the cards on which they were gummed if I left
them for an instant. They crawled continually over my hands and
face, got into my hair, and roamed at will over my whole body,
not producing much inconvenience till they began to bite, which
they would do on meeting with any obstruction to their passage,
and with a sharpness which made me jump again and rush to undress
and turn out the offender. They visited my bed also, so that
night brought no relief from their persecutions; and I verily
believe that during my three and a half months' residence at
Dorey I was never for a single hour entirely free from them.
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