I Had Taken About Thirty
Species Of Butterflies, More Than I Had Ever Captured In A Day
Since Leaving The Prolific Banks Of The Amazon, And Among Them
Were Many Most Rare And Beautiful Insects, Hitherto Only Known By
A Few Specimens From New Guinea.
The large and handsome spectre
butterfly, Hestia durvillei; the pale-winged peacock butterfly,
Drusilla catops; and the most brilliant
And wonderful of the
clear-winged moths, Cocytia durvillei, were especially
interesting, as well, as several little "blues," equalling in
brilliancy and beauty anything the butterfly world can produce.
In the other groups of insects I was not so successful, but this
was not to be wondered at in a mere exploring ramble, when only
what is most conspicuous and novel attracts the attention.
Several pretty beetles, a superb "bug," and a few nice land-
shells were obtained, and I returned in the afternoon well
satisfied with my first trial of the promised land.
The next two days were so wet and windy that there was no going
out; but on the succeeding one the sun shone brightly, and I had
the good fortune to capture one of the most magnificent insects
the world contains, the great bird-winged butterfly, Ornithoptera
Poseidon. I trembled with excitement as I saw it coming
majestically towards me, and could hardly believe I had really
succeeded in my stroke till I had taken it out of the net and was
gazing, lost in admiration, at the velvet black and brilliant
green of its wings, seven inches across, its bolder body, and
crimson breast. It is true I had seen similar insects in cabinets
at home, but it is quite another thing to capture such oneself-to
feel it struggling between one's fingers, and to gaze upon its
fresh and living beauty, a bright gem shirring out amid the
silent gloom of a dark and tangled forest. The village of Dobbo
held that evening at least one contented man.
Jan. 26th. - Having now been here a fortnight, I began to
understand a little of the place and its peculiarities. Praus
continually arrived, and the merchant population increased almost
daily. Every two or three days a fresh house was opened, and the
necessary repairs made. In every direction men were bringing in
poles, bamboos, rattans, and the leaves of the nipa palm to
construct or repair the walls, thatch, doors, and shutters of
their houses, which they do with great celerity. Some of the
arrivals were Macassar men or Bugis, but more from the small
island of Goram, at the east end of Ceram, whose inhabitants are
the petty traders of the far East. Then the natives of Aru come
in from the other side of the islands (called here "blakang
tana," or "back of the country") with the produce they have
collected during the preceding six months, and which they now
sell to the traders, to some of whom they are most likely in
debt.
Almost all, or I may safely say all, the new arrivals pay me a
visit, to see with their own eyes the unheard-of phenomenon of a
person come to stay at Dobbo who does not trade! They have their
own ideas of the uses that may possibly be made of stuffed birds,
beetles, and shells which are not the right shells - that is,
"mother-of-pearl." They every day bring me dead and broken
shells, such as l can pick up by hundreds on the beach, and seem
quite puzzled and distressed when I decline them. If, however,
there are any snail shells among a lot, I take them, and ask for
more - a principle of selection so utterly unintelligible to them,
that they give it up in despair, or solve the problem by imputing
hidden medical virtue to those which they see me preserve so
carefully.
These traders are all of the Malay race, or a mixture of which
Malay is the chef ingredient, with the exception of a few
Chinese. The natives of Aru, on the other hand, are, Papuans,
with black or sooty brown skims, woolly or frizzly hair, thick-
ridged prominent noses, and rather slender limbs. Most of them
wear nothing but a waist-cloth, and a few of them may be seen all
day long wandering about the half-deserted streets of Dobbo
offering their little bit of merchandise for sale.
Living in a trader's house everything is brought to me as well as
to the rest, - bundles of smoked tripang, or "beche de mer,"
looking like sausages which have been rolled in mud and then
thrown up the chimney; dried sharks' fins, mother-of-pearl
shells, as well as birds of Paradise, which, however, are so
dirty and so badly preserved that I have as yet found no
specimens worth purchasing. When I hardly look at the articles,
and make no offer for them, they seem incredulous, and, as if
fearing they have misunderstood me, again offer them, and declare
what they want in return - knives, or tobacco, or sago, or
handkerchiefs. I then have to endeavour to explain, through any
interpreter who may be at hand, that neither tripang nor pearl
oyster shells have any charms for me, and that I even decline to
speculate in tortoiseshell, but that anything eatable I will buy-
-fish, or turtle, or vegetables of any sort. Almost the only
food, however, that we can obtain with any regularity, are fish
and cockles of very good quality, and to supply our daily wants
it is absolutely necessary to be always provided with four
articles - tobacco, knives, sago-cakes, and Dutch copper doits -
because when the particular thing asked for is not forthcoming,
the fish pass on to the next house, and we may go that day
without a dinner. It is curious to see the baskets and buckets
used here. The cockles are brought in large volute shells,
probably the Cymbium ducale, while gigantic helmet-shells, a
species of Cassis, suspended by a rattan handle, form the vessels
in which fresh water is daily carried past my door.
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