Reaching Palembang On The 8th Of
November, I Was Lodged By The Doctor, To Whom I Had Brought A
Letter Of Introduction, And Endeavoured To Ascertain Where I
Could Find A Good Locality For Collecting.
Everyone assured me
that I should have to go a very long way further to find any dry
forest, for at this season the whole country for many miles
inland was flooded.
I therefore had to stay a week at Palembang
before I could determine my future movements.
The city is a large one, extending for three or four miles along
a fine curve of the river, which is as wide as the Thames at
Greenwich. The stream is, however, much narrowed by the houses
which project into it upon piles, and within these, again, there
is a row of houses built upon great bamboo rafts, which are
moored by rattan cables to the shore or to piles, and rise and
fall with the tide.
The whole riverfront on both sides is chiefly formed of such
houses, and they are mostly shops open to the water, and only
raised a foot above it, so that by taking a small boat it is easy
to go to market and purchase anything that is to be had in
Palembang. The natives are true Malays, never building a house on
dry land if they can find water to set it in, and never going
anywhere on foot if they can reach the place in a heat. A
considerable portion of the population are Chinese and Arabs, who
carry on all the trade; while the only Europeans are the civil
and military officials of the Dutch Government. The town is
situated at the head of the delta of the river, and between it
and the sea there is very little ground elevated above highwater
mark; while for many miles further inland, the banks of the main
stream and its numerous tributaries are swampy, and in the wet
season hooded for a considerable distance. Palembang is built on
a patch of elevated ground, a few miles in extent, on the north
bank of the river. At a spot about three miles from the town this
turns into a little hill, the top of which is held sacred by the
natives, shaded by some fine trees,and inhabited by a colony
of squirrels which have become half-tame. On holding out a few
crumbs of bread or any fruit, they come running down the trunk,
take the morsel out of your fingers, and dart away instantly.
Their tails are carried erect, and the hair, which is ringed with
grey, yellow, and brown, radiates uniformly around them, and
looks exceedingly pretty. They have somewhat of the motions of
mice, coming on with little starts, and gazing intently with
their large black eyes before venturing to advance further. The
manner in which Malays often obtain the confidence of wild
animals is a very pleasing trait in their character, and is due
in some degree to the quiet deliberation of their manners, and
their love of repose rather than of action.
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