The Large Semi-Transparent Butterfly, Idea Tondana,
Flew Lazily Along By Dozens, And It Was Here That I At Length
Obtained An Insect Which I Had Hoped But Hardly Expected To Meet
With - The Magnificent Papilio Androcles, One Of The Largest And
Rarest Known Swallow-Tailed Butterflies.
During my four days'
stay at the falls, I was so fortunate as to obtain six good
specimens.
As this beautiful creature flies, the long white tails
flicker like streamers, and when settled on the beach it carries
them raised upwards, as if to preserve them from injury. It is
scarce even here, as I did not see more than a dozen specimens in
all, and had to follow many of them up and down the river's bank
repeatedly before I succeeded in their capture. When the sun
shone hottest, about noon, the moist beach of the pool below the
upper fall presented a beautiful sight, being dotted with groups
of gay butterflies - orange, yellow, white, blue, and green -
which on being disturbed rose into the air by hundreds, forming
clouds of variegated colours.
Such gores, chasms, and precipices here abound,as I have nowhere
seen in the Archipelago. A sloping surface is scarcely anywhere
to be found, huge walls and rugged masses of rock terminating all
the mountains and enclosing the valleys. In many parts there are
vertical or even overhanging precipices five or six hundred feet
high, yet completely clothed with a tapestry of vegetation.
Ferns, Pandanaceae, shrubs, creepers, and even forest trees, are
mingled in an evergreen network, through the interstices of which
appears the white limestone rock or the dark holes and chasms
with which it abounds. These precipices are enabled to sustain
such an amount of vegetation by their peculiar structure. Their
surfaces are very irregular, broken into holes and fissures, with
ledges overhanging the mouths of gloomy caverns; but from each
projecting part have descended stalactites, often forming a wild
gothic tracery over the caves and receding hollows, and affording
an admirable support to the roots of the shrubs, trees, and
creepers, which luxuriate in the warm pure atmosphere and the
gentle moisture which constantly exudes from the rocks. In places
where the precipice offers smooth surfaces of solid rock, it
remains quite bare, or only stained with lichens, and dotted with
clumps of ferns that grow on the small ledges and in the minutest
crevices.
The reader who is familiar with tropical nature only through the
medium of books and botanical gardens will picture to himself in
such a spot many other natural beauties. He will think that I
have unaccountably forgotten to mention the brilliant flowers,
which, in gorgeous masses of crimson, gold or azure, must spangle
these verdant precipices, hang over the cascade, and adorn the
margin of the mountain stream. But what is the reality? In vain
did I gaze over these vast walls of verdure, among the pendant
creepers and bushy shrubs, all around the cascade on the river's
bank, or in the deep caverns and gloomy fissures - not one single
spot of bright colour could be seen, not one single tree or bush
or creeper bore a flower sufficiently conspicuous to form an
object in the landscape. In every direction the eye rested on
green foliage and mottled rock. There was infinite variety in the
colour and aspect of the foliage; there was grandeur in the rocky
masses and in the exuberant luxuriance of the vegetation; but
there was no brilliancy of colour, none of those bright flowers
and gorgeous masses of blossom so generally considered to be
everywhere present in the tropics. I have here given an accurate
sketch of a luxuriant tropical scene as noted down on the spot,
and its general characteristics as regards colour have been so
often repeated, both in South America and over many thousand
miles in the Eastern tropics, that I am driven to conclude that
it represents the general aspect of nature at the equatorial
(that is, the most tropical) parts of the tropical regions.
How is it then, that the descriptions of travellers generally give
a very different idea? and where, it may be asked, are the
glorious flowers that we know do exist in the tropics? These
questions can be easily answered. The fine tropical flowering-
plants cultivated in our hothouses have been culled from the
most varied regions, and therefore give a most erroneous idea of
their abundance in any one region. Many of them are very rare,
others extremely local, while a considerable number inhabit the
more arid regions of Africa and India, in which tropical
vegetation does not exhibit itself in its usual luxuriance. Fine
and varied foliage, rather than gay flowers, is more
characteristic of those parts where tropical vegetation attains
its highest development, and in such districts each kind of
flower seldom lasts in perfection more than a few weeks, or
sometimes a few days. In every locality a lengthened residence
will show an abundance of magnificent and gaily-blossomed plants,
but they have to be sought for, and are rarely at any one time or
place so abundant as to form a perceptible feature in the
landscape. But it has been the custom of travellers to describe
and group together all the fine plants they have met with during
a long journey, and thus produce the effect of a gay and flower-
painted landscape. They have rarely studied and described
individual scenes where vegetation was most luxuriant and
beautiful, and fairly stated what effect was produced in them by
flowers. I have done so frequently, and the result of these
examinations has convinced me that the bright colours of flowers
have a much greater influence on the general aspect of nature in
temperate than in tropical climates. During twelve years spent
amid the grandest tropical vegetation, I have seen nothing
comparable to the effect produced on our landscapes by gorse,
broom, heather, wild hyacinths, hawthorn, purple orchises, and
buttercups.
The geological structure of this part of Celebes is interesting.
The limestone mountains, though of great extent, seem to be
entirely superficial, resting on a basis of basalt which in some
places forms low rounded hills between the more precipitous
mountains.
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