She Swam Beautifully, And Kept
Looking Back As If Expecting I Would Follow Her, Screaming
Violently All The Time; While A Number Of Men And Boys Were
Laughing At Her Ignorant Terror.
At Jahi, the next village, the stream became so swift in
consequence of a flood, that my heavy boat
Could make no way, and
I was obliged to send it back and go on in a very small open one.
So far the river had been very monotonous, the banks being
cultivated as rice-fields, and little thatched huts alone
breaking the unpicturesque line of muddy bank crowned with tall
grasses, and backed by the top of the forest behind the
cultivated ground. A few hours beyond Jahi we passed the limits
of cultivation, and had the beautiful virgin forest coming down
to the water's edge, with its palms and creepers, its noble
trees, its ferns, and epiphytes. The banks of the river were,
however, still generally flooded, and we had some difficulty in
finding a dry spot to sleep on. Early in the morning we reached
Empugnan, a small Malay village, situated at the foot of an
isolated mountain which had been visible from the mouth of the
Simunjon River. Beyond here the tides are not felt, and we now
entered upon a district of elevated forest, with a finer
vegetation. Large trees stretch out their arms across the stream,
and the steep, earthy banks are clothed with ferns and
zingiberaceous plants.
Early in the afternoon we arrived at Tabókan, the first village
of the Hill Dyaks. On an open space near the river, about twenty
boys were playing at a game something like what we call
"prisoner's base;" their ornaments of beads and brass wire and
their gay-coloured kerchiefs and waist-cloths showing to much
advantage, and forming a very pleasing sight. On being called by
Bujon, they immediately left their game to carry my things up to
the "headhouse," - a circular building attached to most Dyak
villages, and serving as a lodging for strangers, the place for
trade, the sleeping-room of the unmarried youths, and the general
council-chamber. It is elevated on lofty posts, has a large
fireplace in the middle and windows in the roof all round, and
forms a very pleasant and comfortable abode. In the evening it
was crowded with young men and boys, who came to look at me. They
were mostly fine young fellows, and I could not help admiring the
simplicity and elegance of their costume. Their only dress is
the long "chawat," or waist-cloth, which hangs down before and
behind. It is generally of blue cotton, ending in three broad
bands of red, blue, and white. Those who can afford it wear a
handkerchief on the head, which is either red, with a narrow
border of gold lace, or of three colours, like the "chawat." The
large flat moon-shaped brass earrings, the heavy necklace of
white or black beads, rows of brass rings on the arms and legs,
and armlets of white shell, all serve to relieve and set off the
pure reddish brown skin and jet-black hair.
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