Those Who Can Afford It Wear A
Handkerchief On The Head, Which Is Either Red, With A Narrow
Border Of
Gold lace, or of three colours, like the "chawat." The
large flat moon-shaped brass earrings, the heavy necklace of
White or black beads, rows of brass rings on the arms and legs,
and armlets of white shell, all serve to relieve and set off the
pure reddish brown skin and jet-black hair. Add to this the
little pouch containing materials for betel-chewing, and a long
slender knife, both invariably worn at the side, and you have the
everyday dress of the young Dyak gentleman.
The "Orang Kaya," or rich man, as the chief of the tribe is
called, now came in with several of the older men; and the
"bitchara" or talk commenced, about getting a boat and men to
take me on the next morning. As I could not understand a word of
their language, which is very different from Malay, I took no
part in the proceedings, but was represented by my boy Bujon, who
translated to me most of what was said. A Chinese trader was in
the house, and he, too, wanted men the next day; but on his
hinting this to the Orang Kaya, he was sternly told that a white
man's business was now being discussed, and he must wait another
day before his could be thought about.
After the "bitchara "was over and the old chiefs gone, I asked
the young men to play or dance, or amuse themselves in their
accustomed way; and after some little hesitation they agreed to
do so. They first had a trial of strength, two boys sitting
opposite each other, foot being placed against foot, and a stout
stick grasped by both their hands. Each then tried to throw
himself back, so as to raise his adversary up from the ground,
either by main strength or by a sudden effort. Then one of the
men would try his strength against two or three of the boys; and
afterwards they each grasped their own ankle with a hand, and
while one stood as firm as he could, the other swung himself
around on one leg, so as to strike the other's free leg, and try
to overthrow him. When these games had been played all around with
varying success, we had a novel kind of concert. Some placed a
leg across the knee, and struck the fingers sharply on the ankle,
others beat their arms against their sides like a cock when he
is going to crow, this making a great variety of clapping sounds,
while another with his hand under his armpit produced a deep
trumpet note; and, as they all kept time very well, the effect
was by no means unpleasing. This seemed quite a favourite
amusement with them, and they kept it up with much spirit.
The next morning we started in a boat about thirty feet long, and
only twenty-eight inches wide. The stream here suddenly changes
its character. Hitherto, though swift, it had been deep and
smooth, and confined by steep banks. Now it rushed and rippled
over a pebbly, sandy, or rocky bed, occasionally forming
miniature cascades and rapids, and throwing up on one side or the
other broad banks of finely coloured pebbles. No paddling could
make way here, but the Dyaks with bamboo poles propelled us along
with great dexterity and swiftness, never losing their balance in
such a narrow and unsteady vessel, though standing up and
exerting all their force. It was a brilliant day, and the
cheerful exertions of the men, the rushing of the sparkling
waters, with the bright and varied foliage, which from either
bank stretched over our heads, produced an exhilarating sensation
which recalled my canoe voyages on the grander waters of South
America.
Early in the afternoon we reached the village of Borotói, and,
though it would have been easy to reach the next one before
night, I was obliged to stay, as my men wanted to return and
others could not possibly go on with me without the preliminary
talking. Besides, a white man was too great a rarity to be
allowed to escape them, and their wives would never have forgiven
them if, when they returned from the fields, they found that such
a curiosity had not been kept for them to see. On entering the
house to which I was invited, a crowd of sixty or seventy men,
women, and children gathered around me, and I sat for half an hour
like some strange animal submitted for the first time to the gaze
of an inquiring public. Brass rings were here in the greatest
profusion, many of the women having their arms completely covered
with them, as well as their legs from the ankle to the knee.
Round the waist they wear a dozen or more coils of fine rattan
stained red, to which the petticoat is attached. Below this are
generally a number of coils of brass wire, a girdle of small
silver coins, and sometimes a broad belt of brass ring armour. On
their heads they wear a conical hat without a crown, formed of
variously coloured beads, kept in shape by rings of rattan, and
forming a fantastic but not unpicturesque headdress.
Walking out to a small hill near the village, cultivated as a
rice-field, I had a fine view of the country, which was becoming
quite hilly, and towards the south, mountainous. I took bearings
and sketches of all that was visible, an operation which caused
much astonishment to the Dyaks who accompanied me, and produced
a request to exhibit the compass when I returned. I was then
surrounded by a larger crowd than before, and when I took my
evening meal in the midst of a circle of about a hundred
spectators anxiously observing every movement and criticising
every mouthful, my thoughts involuntarily recurred to the lion
at feeding time.
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