Where We Lay Anchored, About A Quarter Of A Mile From
The Shore, Not The Slightest Swell Was Perceptible, But On
Approaching Nearer Undulations Began, Which Rapidly Increased, So
As To Form Rollers Which Toppled Over Onto The Beach At Regular
Intervals With A Noise Like Thunder.
Sometimes this surf
increases suddenly during perfect calms to as great a force and
fury as when a gale of wind is blowing, beating to pieces all
boats that may not have been hauled sufficiently high upon the
beach, and carrying away uncautious natives.
This violent surf is
probably in some way dependent upon the swell of the great
southern ocean and the violent currents that flow through the
Straits of Lombock. These are so uncertain that vessels preparing
to anchor in the bay are sometimes suddenly swept away into the
straits, and are not able to get back again for a fortnight.
What seamen call the "ripples" are also very violent in the
straits, the sea appearing to boil and foam and dance like the
rapids below a cataract; vessels are swept about helplessly, and
small ones are occasionally swamped in the finest weather and
under the brightest skies.
I felt considerably relieved when all my boxes and myself had
passed in safety through the devouring surf, which the natives
look upon with some pride, saying, that "their sea is always
hungry, and eats up everything it can catch." I was kindly
received by Mr. Carter, an Englishman, who is one of the Bandars
or licensed traders of the port, who offered me hospitality and
every assistance during my stay.
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