Striking contrast to the perpetual crops on
the same kind of country in Lombock and Bali, where the seasons
are exactly similar, but where an elaborate system of irrigation
produces the effect of a perpetual spring.
The day after my arrival I paid a visit of ceremony to the
Governor, accompanied by my friend the Danish merchant, who spoke
excellent English. His Excellency was very polite, and offered me
every facility for travelling about the country and prosecuting
my researches in natural history. We conversed in French, which
all Dutch officials speak very well.
Finding it very inconvenient and expensive to stay in the town,
I removed at the end of a week to a little bamboo house, kindly
offered me by Mr. Mesman. It was situated about two miles away,
on a small coffee plantation and farm, and about a mile beyond
Mr. M.'s own country-house. It consisted of two rooms raised
about seven feet above the ground, the lower part being partly
open (and serving excellently to skin birds in) and partly used
as a granary for rice. There was a kitchen and other outhouses,
and several cottages nearby, occupied by men in Mr. M.'s employ.
After being settled a few days in my new house, I found that no
collections could be made without going much further into the
country. The rice-fields for some miles around resembled English
stubbles late in autumn, and were almost as unproductive of bird
or insect life. There were several native villages scattered
about, so embosomed in fruit trees that at a distance they looked
like clumps or patches of forest. These were my only collecting
places; but they produced a very limited number of species, and
were soon exhausted. Before I could move to any more promising
district it was necessary to obtain permission from the Rajah of
Goa, whose territories approach to within two miles of the town
of Macassar. I therefore presented myself at the Governor's
office and requested a letter to the Rajah, to claim his
protection, and permission to travel in his territories whenever
I might wish to do so. This was immediately granted, and a
special messenger was sent with me to carry the letter.
My friend Mr. Mesman kindly lent me a horse, and accompanied me
on my visit to the Rajah, with whom he was great friends. We
found his Majesty seated out of doors, watching the erection of a
new house. He was naked from the waist up, wearing only the usual
short trousers and sarong. Two chairs were brought out for us,
but all the chiefs and other natives were seated on the ground.
The messenger, squatting down at the Rajah's feet, produced the
letter, which was sewn up in a covering of yellow silk.
