Here Were Luxuriant Patches Of Tobacco; There,
Cucumbers, Sweet Potatoes, Yams, Beans Or Indian-Corn Varied The
Scene.
In some places the ditches were dry, in others little
streams crossed our road and were distributed over lands about to
be sown or planted.
The banks which bordered every terrace rose
regularly in horizontal lines above each other; sometimes
rounding an abrupt knoll and looking like a fortification, or
sweeping around some deep hollow and forming on a gigantic scale
the seats of an amphitheatre. Every brook and rivulet had been
diverted from its bed, and instead of flowing along the lowest
ground, were to be found crossing our road half-way up an ascent,
yet bordered by ancient trees and moss-grown stones so as to have
all the appearance of a natural channel, and bearing testimony to
the remote period at which the work had been done. As we advanced
further into the country, the scene was diversified by abrupt
rocky bills, by steep ravines, and by clumps of bamboos and palm-
trees near houses or villages; while in the distance the fine
range of mountains of which Lombock Peak, eight thousand feet
high, is the culminating point, formed a fit background to a view
scarcely to be surpassed either in human interest or picturesque
beauty.
Along the first part of our road we passed hundreds of women
carrying rice, fruit, and vegetables to market; and further on, an
almost uninterrupted line of horses laden with rice in bags or in
the car, on their way to the port of Ampanam. At every few miles
along the road, seated under shady trees or slight sheds, were
sellers of sugar-cane, palm-wine, cooked rice, salted eggs, and
fried plantains, with a few other native delicacies. At these
stalls a hearty meal may be made for a penny, but we contented
ourselves with drinking some sweet palm-wine, a most delicious
beverage in the heat of the day. After having travelled about
twenty miles we reached a higher and drier region, where, water
being scarce, cultivation was confined to the little fiats
bordering the streams. Here the country was as beautiful as
before, but of a different character; consisting of undulating
downs of short turf interspersed with fine clumps of trees and
bushes, sometimes the woodland, sometimes the open ground
predominating. We only passed through one small patch of true
forest, where we were shaded by lofty trees, and saw around us a
dark and dense vegetation, highly agreeable after the heat and
glare of the open country.
At length, about an hour after noon, we reached our destination -
the village of Coupang, situated nearly in the centre of the
island - and entered the outer court of a house belonging to one of
the chiefs with whom my friend Mr. Ross had a slight acquaintance.
Here we were requested to seat ourselves under an open den with a
raised floor of bamboo, a place used to receive visitors and hold
audiences.
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