Through Central Borneo An Account Of Two Years' Travel In The Land Of The Head-Hunters Between The Years 1913 And 1917 By Carl Lumholtz
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Ten Years Before He Had Presented Them To
Controleur Baren On The Kayan River, Thus Depriving Me Of The Chance I Had
Hoped For On My Arrival.
The small kampong on the river bank, which here is over twenty metres high
and very steep, is new, and a primitive pasang grahan was in course of
erection.
Six men were much entertained by the novel work of putting up my
tent and received tobacco as remuneration. The place lies near an affluent
from the north, called Braui, which is more difficult of ascent than the
Samba on account of its many kiams. The kapala of the kampong, with two
prahus, had ascended it in twenty days. The Dayaks told me that if they
wanted gold they were able to wash much in these rivers when the water is
low.
I heard here of large congregations of wild pigs, up to 500 or 1,000. When
the herds, called dundun, have eaten all the fruit at one place they move
to another, feeding and marching, following one leader. They can be heard
at a great distance, and there is time to seek safety by climbing a tree
or running. When hunting pigs in the customary way, with dogs and spears,
men have been killed by these animals, though the victims are never eaten.
A fine rusa with large horns was killed one day when crossing the river,
and I preserved the head. It seemed to me to have shorter hair on the back
and sides than this deer usually has, and was larger. The flesh tasted
extremely well, in fact much better than that of the ordinary variety.
During our stay here, in December, a strong wind blew almost every day,
late in the afternoon, not always bringing rain, and quite chilly after
sunset.
When Schwaner made his memorable exploration in 1847 he did not come up
the Samba, but ascended the Katingan River, returning to Western Borneo
over the mountains that bear his name. Controleur Michielsen, in 1880, was
the first European to visit the Samba River, and since then it has been
ignored by explorers. It is part of a large region occupied by the
Ot-Danums, a name which signifies people living at the sources (ot) of the
rivers (danum = water, river). They are found chiefly around the headwaters
of the Kapuas and the Kahayan, and on the Samba and Braui. Some also live
on the upper tributaries to the Katingan, for instance on the Hiran. On all
these rivers they may number as many as 5,000, about 1,200 of which should
be located on the Samba and the Braui. The last figures are fairly correct,
but the first ones are based only on information derived from native
sources.
On the Samba, where I met the Ot-Danums, they are known as Duhoi, a name
applied by themselves and other tribes. They are still in a primitive
condition, though in outward appearance beginning to show the effect of
foreign influence. While a few wear chavats and sometimes becoming rattan
caps, nearly all cut their hair, and they no longer have sumpitans. Higher
up the river is a Malay kampong consisting of settlers from the Western
Division. Occasional traders also bring about inevitable changes, though
as yet few of these Dayaks speak Malay.
The Kahayans who live to the east of them always liked to come to the
Samba, often marrying Duhoi wives, and they also exert an influence. In
intellect they are superior to the Duhoi as well as in knowledge of
worldly affairs, in that respect resembling the Malays, though they have
none of their objectionable qualities. One or two of them are generally
present in a kampong, and I always found them useful because they speak
Malay well besides being truthful and reliable. Some of these are converts
to Christianity through the efforts of the Protestant mission on the
Kahayan River, which has begun to extend its activity to the Samba by
means of such Kahayans.
I prevailed on the "onder" to call the people from three kampongs above,
promising presents of rice. He wrote the order himself in Arabic letters
and sent it on, and late the following day twenty-five Duhoi arrived,
among them four women and several children. Many showed indications of
having had smallpox, not in a scarred face, but by the loss of an eye; one
man was totally blind from the same cause. In order to induce them to
dance I bought a domestic pig, which was brought from the ladang and in
the customary way was left on the ground in the middle of the dancing
place. Four men attended to the gongs which had unusually fine tones.
The women were persuaded to come forward with difficulty. As I expected,
they were like bundles of cloth, exhibiting Malay innovations, and the
dance was uninteresting, each woman keeping her position in a stationary
circle. There was not much life in the dancing of the men either, each
performing at his place in a similar circle, with some movements
resembling the most common form of dancing hitherto described. Finally,
one whose long hair and attire, an ancient short shirt, betrayed him as
belonging to the old school, suddenly stepped forward, drew his parang,
and began to perform a war dance, swinging himself gracefully in a circle.
Another man was almost his equal, and these two danced well around the
babi which was lying at the foot of two thin upright bamboo poles; to the
top of one of these a striped cloth had been tied.
This meeting was followed by friendly dealings with the Dayaks of the
kampongs above, who began to visit me. Silent and unobtrusive, they often
seated themselves before my tent, closely observing my movements,
especially at meal time, eager to get the tin that soon would be empty. A
disagreeable feature, however, was that the natives often brought
mosquitoes with them, and when they began to slap themselves on arms and
legs their absence would have been more acceptable than their company.
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