For the comfort of
travelling "inlanders." As the downpour was steady I deemed it wise to
stop under these shelters, on account of the natives, if for no other
reason, as they are unwilling carriers in rain.
The house of a Malay official was near by, and after a few minutes he came
forth in the rain, a servant bringing a chair which he offered to me.
Feeling hungry, I inquired if bananas were purchasable, but without
immediate result. He was naturally curious to know where I came from, and
having been satisfied in that respect he went back to his house, soon
returning with bananas and a cup of tea. Hearing that I had been three
weeks without mail and was anxious to have news of the war, he also
brought me two illustrated Malay periodicals published in Amsterdam. Alas!
they were half a year old, but nevertheless, among the illustrations were
some I had not seen before. This was a worthy Malay and not unduly
forward - he was too well-mannered for that.
The rain having abated somewhat we soon found ourselves in Kandangan,
where the curiosity of Malays and Chinese was aroused by our procession.
Neither the assistant-resident nor the controleur were at home, but the
former was expected next morning. Many Malays, big and little, gathered in
front of the pasang grahan, where the man in charge could not be found,
but a small boy started in search of him. After half-an-hour the rest of
our party began to come in, and forty-five wet coolies with their damp
burdens filled the ante-room of the pasang grahan, to the despair of the
Malay custodian who belatedly appeared on the scene. Notwithstanding the
unpleasantness of the crowded room I did not think it right to leave the
poor carriers out in the rain, therefore had allowed them to remain. The
burdens having been freed from the rattan and natural fibrous bands by
which they had been carried, these wrappings - a load for two men - were
disposed of by being thrown into the river. Gradually the place assumed an
orderly aspect and Mr. Loing and I established ourselves in two quite
comfortable rooms.
Through fortunate circumstances the assistant-resident, Mr. A.F. Meyer,
was able to arrange to have our old acquaintance, the river-steamer
Otto, to wait for us at Negara and take us to Bandjermasin. His wife had
an interesting collection of live animals and birds from the surrounding
country. She loved animals and possessed much power over them. A kitten of
a wild cat of the jungle, obtained five days previously, was as tame as a
domesticated specimen of the same age. She stroked the back of a hawk
which was absolutely quiet without being tied or having its wings cut. He
sat with his back toward us and as she stroked him merely turned his head,
immediately resuming his former position. All the birds were in perfect
plumage at that time, the month of November, and in fine condition.
We came to a number of beautiful rails, males and females, from the large
marshes of the neighbourhood; the birds were busily running about, but at
sight of her they stopped and emitted clacking notes. From the same
marshes had been obtained many small brownish ducks with exquisitely
shaded coats. The snake bird, with its long, straight, sharp beak and
long, thin neck, she said was dangerous, and she teased him to thrust his
head through the rails. Finally she took from a cage two musangs which
were resting and pressed them against her chest. They were as tame as
cats. It was curious to note that when walking they held their tails so
that a loop was formed in the middle.
In Negara are many high-gabled houses, which I was told are Bandjermasin
style; at all events, they form the original Malay architectural pattern
in Borneo. The town is strongly Malay and famous for its boat-building.
The gondola-like boats of ironwood that attract the attention of the
stranger on his first visit to Bandjermasin, come from this place.
Mosquitoes were troublesome in the surrounding marshes; nevertheless, I
understand there is no malaria.
In this and similar sections in the vicinity of Bandjermasin it is
noticeable that Malay women and girls whiten their faces on special
occasions, doubtless in imitation of Chinese custom. The paint, called
popor, is made from pulverised egg-shells mixed with water, and, for the
finest quality, pigeons' egg-shells are utilised. Where there is much
foreign influence Dayak women have adopted this fashion for festal
occasions. At harvest time, when both Dayak and Malay women wear their
best garments, the faces of the women and the little girls are painted.
My expedition of three weeks had proved successful mainly on account of
the unexpectedly well-preserved knowledge of decorative designs which I
encountered among the Bukits. Otherwise they are slowly but surely
yielding to the Malay influence to which they have been exposed for
hundreds of years. Only the comparative inaccessibility of the country has
prevented their complete absorption.
CHAPTER XXX
AN EXPEDITION TO THE KATINGAN RIVER - TATUING OF THE ENTIRE BODY - THE
GATHERING OF HONEY - A PLEASANT INTERMEZZO - AN UNUSUALLY ARTISTIC
PRODUCTION - UP THE SAMBA RIVER - WITH INCOMPETENT BOATMEN
Arrangements were at once begun for another expedition, this time to the
west of Bandjermasin. I planned to ascend the Mendawei, or Katingan River,
as it is also called, and, if circumstances permitted, cross over to the
headwaters of the Sampit, returning by that stream. Through the kind
efforts of the resident, Mr. H.J. Grijson, arrangements were made that
would enable me to use the government's steam-launch Selatan as far up
the river as it is navigable, to Kuala Samba, and in case necessity arose,
to have it wait for my return.
