Through Central Borneo An Account Of Two Years' Travel In The Land Of The Head-Hunters Between The Years 1913 And 1917 By Carl Lumholtz
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When Travelling In A Prahu, I Do Not
Care For A Prolonged Exposure To The Sun, But Often I Photographed For
Three Or Four Hours Continuously - Really Hard Work - In The Blazing Light
Of The Equatorial Sun, Without Experiencing Any Disagreeable Effect.
In
the spring of 1910 I travelled in this way for three months, mostly on
horseback, through the Sonora Desert, and felt stronger for it.
It is my
opinion that overfatigue, excess in eating, or alcohol are the causes of
sunstroke. I have met only one man who, like myself, discards cover for
the head - Doctor N. Annandale, of the Indian Museum in Calcutta. Although
in our present state of knowledge I agree with him that it is unwise to
advise others to do likewise in the tropics, I emphatically recommend less
fear of the sun in temperate regions, always on the supposition that one
leads a healthy and sane life.
The Long-Glats came from Apo Kayan, and established themselves first on
the River Glit, a tributary from the south to the River Ugga, which again
is an affluent to the River Boh, the outlet from Apo Kayan to the Mahakam.
Since that time the people have called themselves Long-Glit, which is
their correct name, but as they have already become known as Long-Glat,
through the Dutch, I shall use that designation.
In the kapala's house I saw a superb plank, four metres long, raised
lengthwise against the wall; one side of it was taken up with fine
carvings on a large scale, representing three pairs of dogs. This I
fortunately obtained. The kapala's father was an Oma-Suling, but his
grandmother, a Long-Glat, had taught him some kremi or kesa, the Malay
words for folklore (in Long-Glat, lawong), and I collected from him two
rather interesting tales, which are included with other folklore stories
at the end of this book. In one of them (No. 18) the airplane is
foreshadowed, and by one that could fly for a month, at that. Needless to
state, an airplane had never been heard of in those parts.
The people were inquisitive but more distant than the other tribes I had
visited, a quality which is often a saving grace. They were very willing
to be photographed, and among my subjects were three women of the
nobility, called rajas, who had many coins sewn on their skirts in a way
that looked quite well. One wore a head ornament such as I had not seen
before, an elaborate affair lying over the hair, which was worn loose and
hanging down the back. One man trembled noticeably when before the camera,
without spoiling the photograph, however, though it was a side-view.
Of the women who helped me with the interpretations of designs, one had a
marked Mongolian fold of the eye, though her eyes could scarcely be said
to be placed obliquely. As far as my observations go, the Mongolian fold
is very slight with the natives of Borneo, or not present at all, and the
obliquity of the eyes is seldom striking. The Long-Glats do not tatu much,
many not at all, but generally they have on the left upper arm a picture
of the nagah in its usual representation with the disproportionately large
dog's mouth. Wild cattle are not eaten here. The great hornbill, as well
as the red and white hawk, may be killed, but are not eaten.
Three times a day the women bring water and take baths, while the men
bathe when fancy dictates. Penihing and Kayan women begin to husk rice
about five o'clock in the morning, while it is still dark. That is pemali
(forbidden) among the Long-Glats, but the women cook rice at that hour,
and, after eating, most of the people depart to the ladangs, returning
about four o'clock in the afternoon. The women who remain in the kampong
place paddi on mats in the sun to dry, and at noon they husk rice. Early
in the afternoon, and again about two hours after sunset, meals are
served, consisting always of boiled rice and a simple stew of boiled
vegetables of one or more kinds (called sayur, a Malay word), and
sometimes pork.
In the evening the women may cut rattan into fine strips, or weave these
into mats, while the men employ themselves in making a sheath for a
parang, or an axe-handle, or carving a hilt for a sword, etc. They talk
till late at night and sometimes sing. None of the Bahau people are able
to make rattan mats of such exquisite finish as the Long-Glats. The
beautiful dull-red colour employed is procured from a certain grass which
is crushed and boiled, the rattan being kept in the infusion one day. The
black colour is obtained by the same method from the leaves of a tree, and
both colours are lasting.
In the belief of the Long-Glats, people should not laugh at animals, lest
some misfortune result. For instance, when dogs fight among themselves or
with cats, one should not indulge in mirth, else the thunder, which is an
antoh, becomes angry and makes somebody ill. In this kampong was a young
hornbill which was quite domesticated and frequently came to rest on the
top of my tent. It often fought the hens and even the dogs, which was an
amusing sight, but would carry disquieting significance to the Dayak who
allowed himself to laugh. The lieutenant from Long Kai possessed a very
tame wah-wah which had accompanied him on a visit here. The natives told
me that a child had become ill because she could not help laughing at the
ape when it ran after the lieutenant and climbed one of his legs.
According to the blian, the little girl was very warm and feverish, but he
sang in the night, and next day she was well.
Considerable similarity is evident in customs, manners, and beliefs of the
Long-Glats and the Oma-Sulings, though the limited time at my disposal did
not permit me fully to investigate this subject.
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