Through Central Borneo An Account Of Two Years' Travel In The Land Of The Head-Hunters Between The Years 1913 And 1917 By Carl Lumholtz
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It Appears To Be About The Size Of A
Rusa, And In Form Is A Combination Of The Body Of
That animal and a
serpent, the horned head having a disproportionately large dog's mouth.
Being an antoh, and the greatest
Of all, it is invisible under ordinary
conditions, but lives in rivers and underground caves, and it eats human
beings.
Lidju, who accompanied me as interpreter and to be generally useful, had
aroused the men early in the morning to cook their rice, so that we could
start at seven o'clock, arriving in good time at the Kayan kampong, Long
Blu. Here, on the north side of the river, was formerly a small military
establishment, inhabited at present by a few Malay families, the only ones
on the Mahakam River above the great kihams. Accompanied by Lidju I
crossed the river to see the great kampong of the Kayans.
Ascending the tall ladder which leads up to the kampong, we passed through
long, deserted-looking galleries, and from one a woman hurriedly retired
into a room. The inhabitants were at their ladangs, most of them four
hours' travel from here. Arriving finally at the house of Kwing Iran, I
was met by a handful of people gathered in its cheerless, half-dark
gallery. On our return to a newly erected section of the kampong we met
the intelligent kapala and a few men. Some large prahus were lying on land
outside the house, bound for Long Iram, where the Kayans exchange rattan
and rubber for salt and other commodities, but the start had been delayed
because the moon, which was in its second quarter, was not favourable.
These natives are reputed to have much wang, owing to the fact that
formerly they supplied rice to the garrison, receiving one ringit for each
tinful.
Though next day was rainy and the river high, making paddling hard work,
we arrived in good time at Long Tjehan and found ourselves again among the
Penihings. During the month I still remained here I made valuable
ethnological collections and also acquired needed information concerning
the meaning and use of the different objects, which is equally important.
The chief difficulty was to find an interpreter, but an intelligent and
efficient Penihing offered his services. He "had been to Soerabaia," which
means that he had been at hard labour, convicted of head-hunting, and
during his term had acquired a sufficient knowledge of Malay to be able to
serve me. My Penihing collections I believe are complete. Of curious
interest are the many games for children, among them several varieties of
what might be termed toy guns and different kinds of puzzles, some of wood
while others are plaited from leaves or made of thread.
The kampong lies at the junction of the Mahakam and a small river called
Tjehan, which, like several other affluents from the south, originates in
the dividing range. The Tjehan contains two or three kihams but is easy to
ascend, and at its head-waters the range presents no difficulties in
crossing. This is not the case at the sources of the Blu, where the
watershed is high and difficult to pass. Small parties of Malays
occasionally cross over to the Mahakam at these points as well as at
Pahangei. In the country surrounding the kampong are several limestone
hills, the largest of which, Lung Karang, rises in the immediate vicinity.
Doctor Nieuwenhuis on his journey ascended some distance up the Tjehan
tributary, and in the neighbourhood of Lung Karang his native collector
found an orchid which was named phalaenopsis gigantea, and is known only
from the single specimen in the botanical garden at Buitenzorg, Java. On a
visit there my attention was drawn to the unusual size of its leaves and
its white flowers. I then had an interview with the Javanese who found it,
and decided that when I came to the locality I would try to secure some
specimens of this unique plant. Having now arrived in the region, I
decided to devote a few days to looking for the orchid and at the same
time investigate a great Penihing burial cave which was found by my
predecessor.
Accompanied by two of our soldiers and with five Dayak paddlers, I
ascended the Tjehan as far as the first kiham, in the neighbourhood of
which I presumed that the burial cave would be and where, therefore,
according; to the description given to me, the orchid should be found.
There was no doubt that we were near a locality much dreaded by the
natives; even before I gave a signal to land, one of the Penihings,
recently a head-hunter, became hysterically uneasy. He was afraid of orang
mati (dead men), he said, and if we were going to sleep near them he and
his companions would be gone. The others were less perturbed, and when
assured that I did not want anybody to help me look for the dead but for a
rare plant, the agitated man, who was the leader, also became calm.
We landed, but the soldier who usually waited upon me could not be
persuaded to accompany me. All the Javanese, Malays, and Chinamen are
afraid of the dead, he said, and declined to go. Alone I climbed the steep
mountain-side; the ascent was not much over a hundred metres, but I had to
make my way between big blocks of hard limestone, vegetation being less
dense than usual. It was about four o'clock in the afternoon when, from
the top of a crest which I had reached, I suddenly discovered at no great
distance, perhaps eighty metres in front of me, a large cave at the foot
of a limestone hill. With the naked eye it was easy to distinguish a
multitude of rough boxes piled in three tiers, and on top of all a great
variety of implements and clothing which had been deposited there for the
benefit of the dead. It made a strange impression in this apparently
abandoned country where the dead are left in solitude, feared and shunned
by their former associates.
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