Through Central Borneo An Account Of Two Years' Travel In The Land Of The Head-Hunters Between The Years 1913 And 1917 By Carl Lumholtz
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Next Morning The Circular
Dance Was Repeated, With The Difference That The Participants Were Holding
On To A Rope.
About four o'clock in the afternoon the Dayaks began to kill the pigs by
cutting the artery of the neck.
The animals, which were in surprisingly
good condition, made little outcry. The livers were examined, and if found
to be of bad omen were thrown away, but the pig itself is eaten in such
cases, though a full-grown fowl or a tiny chicken only a few days old must
be sacrificed in addition. The carcasses were freed from hair by fire in
the usual way and afterward cleaned with the knife. The skin is eaten with
the meat, which at night was cooked in bamboo. Outside, in front of the
houses, rice cooking had been going on all day. In one row there were
perhaps fifty bamboos, each stuffed with envelopes of banana leaves
containing rice, the parcels being some thirty centimetres long and three
wide.
During the night there was a grand banquet in all the houses. Lidju, my
assistant, did not forget, on this day of plenty, to send my party
generous gifts of fresh pork. To me he presented a fine small ham. As salt
had been left behind we had to boil the meat a la Dayak in bamboo with
very little water, which compensates for the absence of seasoning. A
couple of men brought us two bamboos containing that gelatinous delicacy
into which rice is transformed when cooked in this way. And, as if this
were not enough, early next morning a procession arrived carrying food on
two shields, the inside being turned upward. On these were parcels wrapped
in banana leaves containing boiled rice, to which were tied large pieces
of cooked pork. The first man to appear stepped up to a banana growing
near, broke off a leaf which he put on the ground in front of me, and
placed on it two bundles. The men were unable to speak Malay and
immediately went away without making even a suggestion that they expected
remuneration, as did the two who had given us rice. I had never seen them
before.
The sixth day was one of general rejoicing. Food was exchanged between the
two groups of houses and people were in a very joyful mood, eating pork,
running about, and playing tricks on each other. Both men and women
carried charcoal mixed with the fat of pork, with which they tried to
smear the face and upper body of all whom they met. All were privileged to
engage in this sport but the women were especially active, pursuing the
men, who tried to avoid them, some taking refuge behind my tent. The women
followed one man through the enclosure surrounding the tent, at my
invitation, but they did not succeed in catching him. This practical
joking was continued on the following days except the last.
The Oma-Palo had their own festival, which lasted only one day. It began
in the afternoon of the sixth day and I went over to see it. The livers of
the pigs were not in favourable condition, which caused much delay in the
proceedings, and it was nearly five o'clock when they finally began to
make a primitive dangei hut, all the material for which had been gathered.
A few slim upright poles with human faces carved at the upper ends were
placed so as to form the outline of a quadrangle. On the ground between
them planks were laid, and on the two long sides of this space were raised
bamboo stalks with leaves on, which leaned together and formed an airy
cover. It was profusely adorned with wood shavings hung by the ends in
long spirals, the whole arrangement forming a much simpler house of
worship than the one described above. The kapala having sacrificed a tiny
chicken, a man performed a war dance on the planks in superb fashion, and
after that two female blians danced. Next morning I returned and asked
permission to photograph the dancing. The kapala replied that if a
photograph were made while they were working - that is to say,
dancing - they would have to do all their work over again, otherwise some
misfortune would come upon them, such as the falling of one of the bamboo
stalks, which might kill somebody. Later, while they were eating, for
example, there would be no objection to the accomplishment of my desire.
With the eighth day an increased degree of ceremonials became noticeable,
and in order to keep pace therewith I was driven to continuous activity.
On a muggy, warm morning I began work by photographing the Raja Besar, who
had given me permission to take himself and his family. When I arrived at
the house where he was staying he quickly made his preparations to "look
pleasant," removing the large rings he wore in the extended lobes of his
ears and substituting a set of smaller ones, eight for each ear. He was
also very particular in putting on correct apparel, whether to appear in
warrior costume or as a private gentleman of the highest caste. His sword
and the rest of his outfit, as might be expected, were of magnificent
finish, the best of which Dayak handicraft is capable. He made altogether
a splendid subject for the camera, but his family proved less
satisfactory. I had to wait an hour and a half before his womenfolk were
ready, femininity apparently being alike in this regard in all races. When
they finally emerged from the house in great array (which showed Malay
influence) they were a distinct disappointment.
The raja, who was extremely obliging, ordered the principal men of the
kampong to appear in complete war outfit, and showed us how an imaginary
attack of Iban head-hunters would be met. They came streaming one after
another down the ladder, made the evolutions of a running attack in close
formation, holding their large shields in front of them, then ran to the
water and paddled away, standing in their prahus, to meet the supposed
enemy in the utan on the other side of the river.
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