Through Central Borneo An Account Of Two Years' Travel In The Land Of The Head-Hunters Between The Years 1913 And 1917 By Carl Lumholtz
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This Would Take At Least Two Months And Gave
Me Opportunity To Visit A Lake Called Sembulo, A Considerable Distance
West Of Bandjermasin.
It was necessary first to go to Sampit, a small
town, two days distant, on a river of the same name, where there is a
controleur to whom the resident gave me an introduction, and who would be
able to assist in furthering my plans.
I could not afford to wait for the
monthly steamer which touches at Sampit on its way to Singapore, so I
arranged to make the trip on board an old wooden craft which was under
repairs in Bandjermasin, and in the afternoon of June 5 we started.
The steamer was small, slow, and heavily laden, so it was not a very
pleasant trip. As we sailed down the great Barito River on a dark and
cloudy evening, from the deck, which was scarcely a metre above the muddy
water, one might observe now and then floating clumps of the plants that
thrive so well there. On approaching the mouth of the river the water,
with the outgoing tide, became more shallow. The Malay sailor who
ascertained the depth of the water by throwing his line and sang out the
measures in a melodious air, announced a low figure, which made the
captain stop immediately. The anchor was thrown and simultaneously a great
noise of escaping steam was heard. Before the engine-room the sailors were
seen trying to stop the steam which issued, holding sacks in front of them
as a protection against being scalded. Coupled with my observation that
there were no life preservers in my little cabin, nor anywhere else, the
situation appeared disquieting, but the captain, a small-sized Malay and a
good sailor, as all of that race are, reassured me by saying that it was
only the glass for controlling the steam-power that was broken. After a
while the escape of steam was checked and a new glass was put in.
The old craft kept up its reputation for rolling excessively, and I was
glad when finally we entered the smooth waters of the Sampit River. We
stopped for a couple of hours at a small kampong, where I made the
acquaintance of a Polish engineer in the government's service, who was
doing some work here. He told me that thirty years ago, in the inland
country west of Kotawaringin, he had seen a young Dayak whose chest, arms,
and legs, and most of the face, were covered with hair very similar in
colour to that of the orang-utan, though not so thick. The hair on his
face was black, as usual. There were no Malays at that head, but many
Dayaks. I have heard reports of natives in the Schwaner mountains, who are
said to have more hair on the body than Europeans, of a brownish colour,
while that on the head is black. Controleur Michielsen, [*] in the report
of his journey to the upper Sampit and Katingan in 1880, describes a
certain Demang Mangan who had long, thin hair on the head, while on the
chest and back it was of the same brown-red colour as that of the
orang-utan.
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