Through Central Borneo An Account Of Two Years' Travel In The Land Of The Head-Hunters Between The Years 1913 And 1917 By Carl Lumholtz
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This Rapidly Carried
It Toward An Almost Invisible Rock Where Longko, Who Was An Old Hand On
This River, Had Taken His Stand Among The Waves And Kept It From
Foundering.
The Malays were pulling the rattan as fast as they could,
running at times, but before the prahu could be hauled up to safety it
still had to pass a hidden rock some distance out.
It ran against this and
made a disagreeable turn, but regained its balance.
The next one nearly turned over, and Mr. Demmini decided to take out the
kinema camera, which was got in readiness to film the picturesque scene.
In the meantime, in order to control the prahu from the side, a second
rattan rope had been tied to the following one, thereby enabling the men
to keep it from going too far out. This should have been done at the
start, but the Malays always like to take their chances. Though the
remaining prahus did not present such exciting spectacles, nevertheless
the scene was uncommonly picturesque. After nine hours of heavy work,
during most of which the men had kept running from stone to stone dragging
rattan cables, we camped on a sand-ridge that ran out as a peninsula into
the river. At one side was an inlet of calm, dark-coloured water into
which, a hundred metres away, a tributary emptied itself into a lovely
waterfall. A full moon rose over the enchanting landscape.
At half-past six in the morning we started for the next kiham, the
so-called Kiham Mudang, where we arrived an hour later. This was the most
impressive of all the rapids so far, the river flowing between narrow
confines in a steady down-grade course, which at first sight seemed
impossible of ascent. The river had fallen half a metre since the day
before, and although most kihams are easier to pass at low water, this one
was more difficult. The men, standing in water up to their arms, brought
all the luggage ashore and carried it further up the river. Next the
prahus were successfully pulled up, being kept as near land as possible
and tossed like toys on the angry waves, and pushed in and out of small
inlets between the big stones. In three hours we effected the passage and
in the afternoon arrived at Tumbang Djuloi, a rather prettily situated
kampong on a ridge along the river.
I was installed in a small house which was vacant at one end of the little
village, the greater part of which is Malay. There were two houses
belonging to Ot-Danums which I found locked with modern padlocks. Nearly
all Malays and Dayaks were at the ladangs, where they spend most of their
time, remaining over night. Coal, which is often found on the upper part
of the Barito River, may be observed in the bank of the river in a layer
two metres thick. It is of good quality, but at present cannot be utilised
on account of the formidable obstacle to transportation presented by the
kiham below.
Our Malays soon began to talk of returning, fifteen of the twenty-four men
wanting to go home. Payment having been refused until the goods left below
had been brought up, a settlement was reached and the necessary men, with
the sergeant, departed for Telok Djulo. In the meantime we began to convey
our belongings higher up the river, above the next kiham, where they were
stored in the jungle and covered with a tent cloth.
After the arrival of the luggage which had been left behind, there was a
universal clamour for returning home, the Malays professing great
disinclination to proceeding through the difficult Busang country ahead of
us. Even those from Puruk Tjahu, who had pledged themselves to continue to
the end, backed out. Though wages were raised to f. 1.50 per day, only
eight men remained. To this number we were able to add three Malays from
the kampong. One was the Mohammedan guru (priest), another a mild-tempered
Malay who always had bad luck, losing floats of rattan in the kihams, and
therefore passed under the nickname of tokang karam (master of
misfortune). The third was a strong, tall man with some Dayak blood, who
was tatued. Djobing, as he was named, belonged to a camp of rattan workers
up on the Busang, and decided to go at the last moment, no doubt utilising
the occasion as a convenient way of returning.
I was glad to see him climb down the steep embankment, carrying in one
hand a five-gallon tin, neatly painted, which had opening and cover at the
long side, to which a handle was attached. Under the other arm he had the
usual outfit of a travelling Malay, a mat, on which he slept at night and
in which were wrapped a sheet and a few pieces of light clothing. His tin
case was full of tobacco and brought forth disparaging remarks from the
lieutenant, who was chary of the precious space in the prahus.
Having successfully passed the censor Djobing was assigned to my prahu,
where he soon showed himself to be a very good man, as alert as a Dayak
and not inclined to save himself trouble. He would jump into the water up
to his neck to push and steer the prahu, or, in the fashion of the Dayaks
and the best Malays, would place his strong back under and against it to
help it off when grounded on a rock. When circumstances require quick
action such men will dive under the prahu and put their backs to it from
the other side.
There was little chance of more paddling, the prahus being poled or
dragged by rattan, and many smaller kihams were passed. We entered the
Busang River, which is barely thirty-five metres wide at its mouth,
flowing through hilly country. The water was low at that time, but is
liable to rise quickly, through rains, and as it has little opportunity
for expansion at the sides the current flows with such violence that
travel becomes impossible.
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