I am under similar obligations to the Koninklijke
Paketvaart-Maatschappij, and my thanks are also due to De Scheepsagentuur
for courtesies received. Miss Ethel Newcomb, of New York, has kindly
transcribed the two songs rendered.
Finally I desire to make grateful acknowledgment of valuable assistance
rendered by Doctor J.C. Koningsberger, and by Doctor W. van Bemmelen,
director of Koninklijk Magnetisch en Meteorologisch Observatorium,
Weltevreden, Batavia.
Although force of circumstances altered the scope and to some extent the
character of this expedition, nevertheless my Bornean experiences afforded
great satisfaction. Moreover, my sojourn in the equatorial regions of the
East has imbued me with an even stronger desire to carry out my original
purpose, which I hope to accomplish in the near future.
CARL LUMHOLTZ
NEW YORK, April, 1920.
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I
DEPARTURE FROM NEW YORK - A RACE WITH THE IMPERIAL LIMITED - IMPRESSIONS OF
JAPAN - SINGAPORE - ARRIVAL AT BATAVIA, JAVA - BUITENZORG - BORO BUDUR, THE
WONDROUS BUDDHIST MONUMENT
CHAPTER II
BORNEO - CLIMATIC AND BIOLOGICAL CONDITIONS - NATURAL RESOURCES - POPULATION -
HISTORY - GOVERNMENT OF THE NATIVES - RACIAL PROBLEMS.
CHAPTER III
BANDJERMASIN, THE PRINCIPAL TOWN IN DUTCH BORNEO - NORTHWARD ALONG THE EAST
COAST - BALIK PAPAN, AN OIL PRODUCING CENTRE - SAMARINDA - TANDJONG
SELOR - THE SULTAN - UP THE KAYAN RIVER.
CHAPTER IV
AN EXPEDITION INTO THE JUNGLE - FIRST IMPRESSIONS - RAPID CHANGE IN THE
DENSENESS OF VEGETATION - ANIMAL LIFE - A STUBBORN FIGHT
CHAPTER V
MEETING PUNANS, THE SHY JUNGLE PEOPLE - DOWN THE RIVER AGAIN - MY
ENTHUSIASTIC BOATMEN - MALAYS VERSUS DAYAKS
CHAPTER VI
RESUMPTION OF MY JOURNEY UP THE KAYAN RIVER - LONG PANGIAN - BERI-BERI -
HINTS ON PROPER PROVISIONS - KENYAHS FROM CENTRAL BORNEO - EFFECT OF A
SPIDER'S BITE
CHAPTER VII
ON THE ISAU RIVER - A KENYAH CHILD'S FUNERAL - A GREAT FISHING EXPEDITION -
CATCHING FISH BY POISONING THE RIVER - TAKING OMENS - ENTERTAINING SCENES
CHAPTER VIII
THE JOURNEY CONTINUED UP THE KAYAN RIVER - FIRST EXPERIENCE OF KIHAMS,
OR RAPIDS - WITH KENYAH BOATMEN - ADVANTAGE OF NATIVE COOKING - LONG
PELABAN - THE ATTRACTIVE KENYAHS - SOCIAL STRATA - CUSTOMS AND
HABITS - VALUABLE BEADS
CHAPTER IX
HYDROPHOBIA - FUNERAL CEREMONIES - AT A PADDI HARVEST - ANOTHER TUBA-FISHING
EXPEDITION - THE CHARM OF PRIMITIVE MAN - INTERESTING CEREMONIES - ON
HEADHUNTING GROUND
CHAPTER X
IN FOG AND DARKNESS - A RAID BY ANTS - DEPARTURE FROM LONG PELABAN - AN
EXCITING PASSAGE - RETURN TO TAND-JONG SELOR
CHAPTER XI
DEPARTURE FOR BANDJERMASIN - A PLEASANT STEAMSHIP LINE - TWO HEAD-HUNTERS -
AN EXPEDITION TO LAKE SEMBULO - SAMPIT - THE ORANG-UTAN - STORMY WEATHER - A
DISAGREEABLE RECEPTION
CHAPTER XII
THE WAR CHANGES MY PLANS - CHOLERA - UP THE GREAT BARITO RIVER - PURUK
TJAHU - DECIDE TO STAY AMONG THE MURUNGS - A DANCING FEAST
CHAPTER XIII
DAYAK CURE OF DISEASE-EVIL SPIRITS AND GOOD - ANIMISM - BLIANS, THE
PRIEST-DOCTORS - THE FEAST OF RUBBER-GATHERERS - WEDDINGS - IN PRIMITIVE
SURROUNDINGS
CHAPTER XIV
THE SCALY ANT-EATER - THE PORCUPINE - THE BLOW-PIPE - AN UNUSUAL ADVENTURE
WITH A SNAKE - HABITS AND CUSTOMS OF THE MURUNGS - AN UNPLEASANT AFFAIR
CHAPTER XV
FINAL START FOR CENTRAL BORNEO - CHRISTMAS TIME - EXTENT OF MALAY
INFLUENCE - THE FLOWERS OF EQUATORIAL REGIONS - AT AN OT-DANUM
KAMPONG - THE PICTURESQUE KIHAMS, OR RAPIDS - FORMIDABLE OBSTACLES TO
TRAVEL - MALAYS ON STRIKE
CHAPTER XVI
ARRIVAL AT BAHANDANG - ON THE EQUATOR - A STARTLING ROBBERY - OUR
MOST LABORIOUS JOURNEY - HORNBILLS - THE SNAKE AND THE INTREPID
PENYAHBONG - ARRIVAL AT TAMALOE
CHAPTER XVII
THE PENYAHBONGS, MEN OF THE WOODS - RHINOCEROS HUNTERS - CHARACTERISTICS OF
THE PENYAHBONGS - EASY HOUSEKEEPING - DAILY LIFE - WOMAN'S LOT
CHAPTER XVIII
A STRANGE MAMMAL - ANIMAL LIFE IN CENTRAL BORNEO - A SUPERB AND SILENT
REALM - VISIT TO A SALT WATER EXUDATION - PASSING THE DIVIDING RIDGE - A
MOUSE-DEER CHASE - ON THE KASAO RIVER
CHAPTER XIX
THE SAPUTANS - HOW THE EARS OF THE CHIEF WERE PIERCED - AN UNEXPECTED
ATTACK OF FILARIASIS - DEPARTURE FROM THE SAPUTANS - DOWN THE KASAO
RIVER - "TOBOGGANING" THE KIHAMS
CHAPTER XX
ARRIVAL ON THE MAHAKAM RIVER - AMONG THE PENIHINGS - LONG KAI, A PLEASANT
PLACE - A BLIAN'S SHIELD - PUNANS AND BUKATS, SIMPLE-MINDED NOMADS - EXTREME
PENALTY FOR UNFAITHFULNESS - LONG TJEHAN
CHAPTER XXI
AN EXCURSION DOWN THE RIVER - LONG PAHANGEI - THE OMASULINGS - THE GREAT
TRIENNIAL FESTIVAL - HOSPITABLE NATIVES - INCIDENTS IN PHOTOGRAPHY
CHAPTER XXII
DAYAK DOGS - A FUNERAL ON THE MAHAKAM - OUR RETURN JOURNEY - AGAIN AT LONG
TJEHAN - IN SEARCH OF A UNIQUE ORCHID - A BURIAL CAVE
CHAPTER XXIII
A PROFITABLE STAY - MAGNIFICENT FRUITS OF BORNEO - OMEN BIRDS - THE PENIHINGS
IN DAILY LIFE - TOP PLAYING - RELIGIOUS IDEAS - CURING DISEASE
CHAPTER XXIV
HEAD-HUNTING, ITS PRACTICE AND PURPOSE
CHAPTER XXV
DEPARTURE FROM THE PENIHINGS - FRUIT-EATING FISH - ANOTHER CALL AT LONG
PAHANGEI - A TRIP UP THE MERASI RIVER - GENIAL NATIVES - AN INOPPORTUNE
VISIT - THE DURIAN, QUEEN OF ALL FRUITS
CHAPTER XXVI
AMONG THE LONG-GLATS - IS FEAR OF EXPOSURE TO THE SUN JUSTIFIED?
