Through Central Borneo An Account Of Two Years' Travel In The Land Of The Head-Hunters Between The Years 1913 And 1917 By Carl Lumholtz
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The Grass Which We Had Left Completely Cut Down Had
Grown Over Twenty Centimeters.
(Three weeks later it was in bloom.) It was
the month of March and several big trees in the surrounding jungle were
covered with masses of white blossoms.
It is about 112 kilometres from Tandiong Selor to Long Pangian, our first
halting-place, and, as the current of the river is not strong until the
last day, the distance may be covered in four days. When low the Kayan
River is light greenish-brown, but when high the colour changes to a muddy
red-brown with a tinge of yellow. We used the dilapidated pasang-grahans
as shelters, but one night we were obliged to camp on the river bank, so I
had the tall, coarse grass cut down on the embankment, which was a few
metres higher than the beach. Underneath the tall growth was another kind
of grass, growing low and tangled like a mat, which could be disposed of
by placing poles under it, lifting it and rolling it back, while at the
same time the few roots attaching it to the ground were cut with swords.
In less than fifteen minutes I had a safe place for my tent.
The Dayaks, however, who have little to concern them except their prahus,
in which is left whatever baggage they may have, as usual slept in the
prahus or on the stony beach. During the night the river rose a metre, and
some of the men awoke in water. The Chinese mandur, notwithstanding my
warnings, had tied his prahu carelessly, and in the middle of the night it
drifted off, with lighted lamp and two Dayaks sleeping in it. Luckily some
of the others soon discovered the accident and a rescuing party brought it
back early in the morning. The "kitchen" had been moved up to my place,
and in spite of rain and swollen river we all managed to get breakfast. I
had a call from the chief of the near-by kampong, who spoke excellent
Malay, and had visited New Guinea twice on Dutch expeditions, once with
Doctor Lorenz. One characteristic of the climate which had impressed him
much was the snow, which had been very cold for the feet. He was kind
enough to send me a present of a young fowl, which was very acceptable.
Long Pangian is a small settlement where ten native soldiers are kept,
under the command of a so-called posthouder, in this case a civilized
Dayak from the South, who met us at the landing in an immaculate white
suit and new tan shoes. It was warmer here toward the end of March than at
Tandjong Selor, because there had not been much rain for a month. The soil
was therefore hard, and in the middle of the day so heated that after a
shower it remained as dry as before. A few Chinamen and Bugis who live
here advance rice and dried fish to the Malays to provision expeditions
into the utan which last two to three months, receiving in return rubber
and damar.
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