I want to express my appreciation of many services rendered by the
Nederlandsche Handel-Maatschappij and its branches, especially the
Factorij in Batavia. I am under similar obligations to the Koninklijke
Paketvaart-Maatschappij, and my thanks are also due to De Scheepsagentuur
for courtesies received. Miss Ethel Newcomb, of New York, has kindly
transcribed the two songs rendered.
Finally I desire to make grateful acknowledgment of valuable assistance
rendered by Doctor J.C. Koningsberger, and by Doctor W. van Bemmelen,
director of Koninklijk Magnetisch en Meteorologisch Observatorium,
Weltevreden, Batavia.
Although force of circumstances altered the scope and to some extent the
character of this expedition, nevertheless my Bornean experiences afforded
great satisfaction. Moreover, my sojourn in the equatorial regions of the
East has imbued me with an even stronger desire to carry out my original
purpose, which I hope to accomplish in the near future.
CARL LUMHOLTZ
NEW YORK, April, 1920.
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I
DEPARTURE FROM NEW YORK - A RACE WITH THE IMPERIAL LIMITED - IMPRESSIONS OF
JAPAN - SINGAPORE - ARRIVAL AT BATAVIA, JAVA - BUITENZORG - BORO BUDUR, THE
WONDROUS BUDDHIST MONUMENT
CHAPTER II
BORNEO - CLIMATIC AND BIOLOGICAL CONDITIONS - NATURAL RESOURCES - POPULATION -
HISTORY - GOVERNMENT OF THE NATIVES - RACIAL PROBLEMS.
CHAPTER III
BANDJERMASIN, THE PRINCIPAL TOWN IN DUTCH BORNEO - NORTHWARD ALONG THE EAST
COAST - BALIK PAPAN, AN OIL PRODUCING CENTRE - SAMARINDA - TANDJONG
SELOR - THE SULTAN - UP THE KAYAN RIVER.
CHAPTER IV
AN EXPEDITION INTO THE JUNGLE - FIRST IMPRESSIONS - RAPID CHANGE IN THE
DENSENESS OF VEGETATION - ANIMAL LIFE - A STUBBORN FIGHT
CHAPTER V
MEETING PUNANS, THE SHY JUNGLE PEOPLE - DOWN THE RIVER AGAIN - MY
ENTHUSIASTIC BOATMEN - MALAYS VERSUS DAYAKS
CHAPTER VI
RESUMPTION OF MY JOURNEY UP THE KAYAN RIVER - LONG PANGIAN - BERI-BERI -
HINTS ON PROPER PROVISIONS - KENYAHS FROM CENTRAL BORNEO - EFFECT OF A
SPIDER'S BITE
CHAPTER VII
ON THE ISAU RIVER - A KENYAH CHILD'S FUNERAL - A GREAT FISHING EXPEDITION -
CATCHING FISH BY POISONING THE RIVER - TAKING OMENS - ENTERTAINING SCENES
CHAPTER VIII
THE JOURNEY CONTINUED UP THE KAYAN RIVER - FIRST EXPERIENCE OF KIHAMS,
OR RAPIDS - WITH KENYAH BOATMEN - ADVANTAGE OF NATIVE COOKING - LONG
PELABAN - THE ATTRACTIVE KENYAHS - SOCIAL STRATA - CUSTOMS AND
HABITS - VALUABLE BEADS
CHAPTER IX
HYDROPHOBIA - FUNERAL CEREMONIES - AT A PADDI HARVEST - ANOTHER TUBA-FISHING
EXPEDITION - THE CHARM OF PRIMITIVE MAN - INTERESTING CEREMONIES - ON
HEADHUNTING GROUND
CHAPTER X
IN FOG AND DARKNESS - A RAID BY ANTS - DEPARTURE FROM LONG PELABAN - AN
EXCITING PASSAGE - RETURN TO TAND-JONG SELOR
CHAPTER XI
DEPARTURE FOR BANDJERMASIN - A PLEASANT STEAMSHIP LINE - TWO HEAD-HUNTERS -
AN EXPEDITION TO LAKE SEMBULO - SAMPIT - THE ORANG-UTAN - STORMY WEATHER - A
DISAGREEABLE RECEPTION
CHAPTER XII
THE WAR CHANGES MY PLANS - CHOLERA - UP THE GREAT BARITO RIVER - PURUK
TJAHU - DECIDE TO STAY AMONG THE MURUNGS - A DANCING FEAST
CHAPTER XIII
DAYAK CURE OF DISEASE-EVIL SPIRITS AND GOOD - ANIMISM - BLIANS, THE
PRIEST-DOCTORS - THE FEAST OF RUBBER-GATHERERS - WEDDINGS - IN PRIMITIVE
SURROUNDINGS
CHAPTER XIV
THE SCALY ANT-EATER - THE PORCUPINE - THE BLOW-PIPE - AN UNUSUAL ADVENTURE
WITH A SNAKE - HABITS AND CUSTOMS OF THE MURUNGS - AN UNPLEASANT AFFAIR
CHAPTER XV
FINAL START FOR CENTRAL BORNEO - CHRISTMAS TIME - EXTENT OF MALAY
INFLUENCE - THE FLOWERS OF EQUATORIAL REGIONS - AT AN OT-DANUM
KAMPONG - THE PICTURESQUE KIHAMS, OR RAPIDS - FORMIDABLE OBSTACLES TO
TRAVEL - MALAYS ON STRIKE
CHAPTER XVI
ARRIVAL AT BAHANDANG - ON THE EQUATOR - A STARTLING ROBBERY - OUR
MOST LABORIOUS JOURNEY - HORNBILLS - THE SNAKE AND THE INTREPID
PENYAHBONG - ARRIVAL AT TAMALOE
CHAPTER XVII
THE PENYAHBONGS, MEN OF THE WOODS - RHINOCEROS HUNTERS - CHARACTERISTICS OF
THE PENYAHBONGS - EASY HOUSEKEEPING - DAILY LIFE - WOMAN'S LOT
CHAPTER XVIII
A STRANGE MAMMAL - ANIMAL LIFE IN CENTRAL BORNEO - A SUPERB AND SILENT
REALM - VISIT TO A SALT WATER EXUDATION - PASSING THE DIVIDING RIDGE - A
MOUSE-DEER CHASE - ON THE KASAO RIVER
CHAPTER XIX
THE SAPUTANS - HOW THE EARS OF THE CHIEF WERE PIERCED - AN UNEXPECTED
ATTACK OF FILARIASIS - DEPARTURE FROM THE SAPUTANS - DOWN THE KASAO
RIVER - "TOBOGGANING" THE KIHAMS
CHAPTER XX
ARRIVAL ON THE MAHAKAM RIVER - AMONG THE PENIHINGS - LONG KAI, A PLEASANT
PLACE - A BLIAN'S SHIELD - PUNANS AND BUKATS, SIMPLE-MINDED NOMADS - EXTREME
PENALTY FOR UNFAITHFULNESS - LONG TJEHAN
CHAPTER XXI
AN EXCURSION DOWN THE RIVER - LONG PAHANGEI - THE OMASULINGS - THE GREAT
TRIENNIAL FESTIVAL - HOSPITABLE NATIVES - INCIDENTS IN PHOTOGRAPHY
CHAPTER XXII
DAYAK DOGS - A FUNERAL ON THE MAHAKAM - OUR RETURN JOURNEY - AGAIN AT LONG
TJEHAN - IN SEARCH OF A UNIQUE ORCHID - A BURIAL CAVE
CHAPTER XXIII
A PROFITABLE STAY - MAGNIFICENT FRUITS OF BORNEO - OMEN BIRDS - THE PENIHINGS
IN DAILY LIFE - TOP PLAYING - RELIGIOUS IDEAS - CURING DISEASE
CHAPTER XXIV
HEAD-HUNTING, ITS PRACTICE AND PURPOSE
CHAPTER XXV
DEPARTURE FROM THE PENIHINGS - FRUIT-EATING FISH - ANOTHER CALL AT LONG
PAHANGEI - A TRIP UP THE MERASI RIVER - GENIAL NATIVES - AN INOPPORTUNE
VISIT - THE DURIAN, QUEEN OF ALL FRUITS
CHAPTER XXVI
AMONG THE LONG-GLATS - IS FEAR OF EXPOSURE TO THE SUN JUSTIFIED? -
CHARACTERISTICS OF THE LONG-GLATS - GOODBYE TO THE MAHAKAM
CHAPTER XXVII
CONTINUING THE JOURNEY DOWN THE RIVER - GREAT KIHAMS - BATOKELAU - AT
LONG IRAM - LAST STAGES OF OUR JOURNEY - ARRIVAL AT SAMARINDA - HINDU
ANTIQUITIES - NATIVE'S SUPERIORITY TO CIVILISED MAN
CHAPTER XXVIII
AN EARTHQUAKE - ERADICATING THE PLAGUE - THROUGH THE COUNTRY NORTHEAST
OF BANDJERMASIN - MARTAPURA AND ITS DIAMOND-FIELDS - PENGARON - THE GIANT
PIG - THE BUKITS - WELL-PRESERVED DECORATIVE DESIGNS - AN ATTRACTIVE FAMILY
CHAPTER XXIX
THE BALEI OR TEMPLE - A LITTLE KNOWN PART OF THE COUNTRY - A COURTEOUS
MALAY - POWER OVER ANIMALS - NEGARA.
CHAPTER XXX
AN EXPEDITION TO THE KATINGAN RIVER - TATUING OF THE ENTIRE BODY - THE
GATHERING OF HONEY - A PLEASANT INTERMEZZO - AN UNUSUALLY ARTISTIC
PRODUCTION - UP THE SAMBA RIVER - WITH INCOMPETENT BOATMEN
CHAPTER XXXI
AMONG THE DUHOI (OT-DANUMS) - RICH COLLECTIONS - THE KAPATONGS - THE BATHING
OF DAYAK INFANTS - CHRISTMAS EVE - THE FLYING BOAT - MARRIAGE CEREMONIES
CHAPTER XXXII
AGRICULTURAL PURSUITS - FACTS ABOUT ULU-OTS, THE WILD MEN OF
BORNEO - TAKING LEAVE OF THE INTERESTING DUHOI - A VISIT TO THE UPPER
KATINGANS - DANCING - FRIENDLY NATIVES - DOWN THE KATINGAN RIVER
CHAPTER XXXIII
KASUNGAN - THE WEALTH OF THE DAYAKS - ANIMISM - GUARDIANS OF THE DEAD - HUGE
SERPENTS - CROCODILES - GOVERNMENT OF DAYS GONE BY - KATINGAN CUSTOMS AND
BELIEFS
CHAPTER XXXIV
FUNERAL CUSTOMS OF THE KATINGANS - DEPARTURE FROM KASUNGAN - AN ATTEMPTED
VISIT TO SEMBULO - INDIFFERENT MALAYS - A STRANGE DISEASE - THE BELIEF IN
TAILED PEOPLE - THE LEGEND OF THE ANCESTOR OF TAILED MEN
CHAPTER XXXV
A VISIT TO KUALA KAPUAS - A BREED OF STUMP-TAILED DOGS - THE SHORT-TAILED
CATS OF BORNEO - A SECOND EXPEDITION TO LAKE SEMBULO - NATIVES UNDISMAYED BY
BERI-BERI - THE TAMOANS - THE PRACTICE OF INCISION
FOLKLORE OF SOME OF THE TRIBES IN DUTCH BORNEO VISITED BY THE AUTHOR
CONCLUSION
SUPPLEMENTARY NOTES TO THE TRIBES IN DUTCH BORNEO VISITED BY THE AUTHOR
A SHORT GLOSSARY
INDEX
CHAPTER I
DEPARTURE FROM NEW YORK - A RACE WITH THE IMPERIAL LIMITED - IMPRESSIONS OF
JAPAN - SINGAPORE - ARRIVAL AT BATAVIA, JAVA - BUITENZORG - BORO BUDUR, THE
WONDROUS BUDDHIST MONUMENT
Having concluded important business matters during a brief stay in New
York, I decided to go to Canada to take the express train for Vancouver.
It was the last train which made connection with the Canadian Pacific
steamer for Hong-Kong, and if I could make it I should save three weeks.
With the assurance that I should have a couple of hours latitude, I
started in the morning for Montreal.
