Through Central Borneo An Account Of Two Years' Travel In The Land Of The Head-Hunters Between The Years 1913 And 1917 By Carl Lumholtz
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The Trough Had At One End A Small Compartment, Open Like The Rest,
But The Sides Had Been Smoothed With An Axe And When Beaten Served The
Purpose Of A Gong.
The bark was pounded into small pieces and then thrown
to one side upon large palm leaves which covered the bridge.
Boarding a prahu, I next visited Amban Klesau's bridge, a little lower
down, which was larger and more pretentious, with tall poles erected on
it, and from the top hung ornamental wood shavings. The end of the trough
here had actually been carved into a semblance of the head of "an animal
which lives in the ground," probably representing a supernatural being
usually called nagah. The owner himself was beating it with a stick on
both sides of the head, and this made more noise than the pounding of the
fifty men and women who stood working at the trough. At times they walked
in single file around it.
The pounding was finished in the forenoon, and all went a little farther
down the river to take the fire omen at a place where the river widened
out into a pool. A man with many tail-feathers from the rhinoceros
hornbill (buceros rhinoceros) stuck into his rattan cap seated himself
on a crude platform which had been built on upright poles over the water.
Some long pieces of tuba-root were lying there, and he squatted on his
heels facing the principal men who were sitting on the bank south of him.
A few minutes later the chief of Long Mahan made his way out to the
platform over some logs which loosely bridged the space to the bank of the
river, and attempted the fire-making, but after two unsuccessful attempts
he retired. Several other prominent men came and tried, followed by the
man with the tail-feathers in his cap, but he also failed; whereupon they
all stepped ashore, taking the fire-making implements and some of the
roots with them, in order to see whether they would have better luck on
land. The brother of the chief now came forward and made two attempts,
with no more success than the others. Urged to try again, he finally
succeeded; the assemblage silently remained seated for a few minutes, when
some men went forth and beat tuba with short sticks, then threw water upon
it, and as a final procedure cast the bark into the river and again beat
it. From the group of the most important people an old man then waded into
the water and cast adrift burning wood shavings which floated down-stream.
In the meantime the Long Mahan people had gone to throw the bark into the
river from their elaborate bridge, and those of Long Pelaban went to their
establishments. The finely pounded bark soon began to float down the river
from the bridges as it might were there a tannery in the neighbourhood.
Presently white foam began to form in large sheets, in places twenty-five
centimetres thick and looking much like snow, a peculiar sight between the
dark walls of tropical jungle. Above the first little rapid, where the
water was congested, a portion of the foam remained like snow-drift, while
most of it continued to advance and spread itself over the first long
pool. Here both men and women were busily engaged catching fish with
hand-nets, some wading up to their necks, others constantly diving
underneath and coming up covered with light foam.
The insignificant number of fish caught - nearly all of the same kind - was
surprising and disappointing. Even small fish were eagerly sought. There
was little animation, especially at the beginning of the sport, and no
spears were used. Several tons of bark must have been utilized, at least
eight or ten times as much as at the Isau River, and I regretted that they
should have so little reward for their trouble. Five days were spent in
travel, two days in making "bring" and gathering tuba, and they had
pounded tuba for eight hours, since two o'clock in the morning. After all
these exertions many prahus must have returned without fish. Possibly the
fish had been practically exterminated by the tuba poisoning of former
years. One man told me that many fish remain dead at the bottom, which
partly accounts for the scanty result.
I was desirous of having Chonggat remain here for a week of collecting,
but no Kenyah was willing to stay with him, all being deterred through
fear of Punan head-hunters, who, on this river, not so long ago, had
killed some rubber-gatherers from Sarawak. Besides, they also anticipated
revenge on the part of Kayans, eleven of whom had been killed by the
Kenyahs in Apo Kayan one and a half years previously. According to their
own reports and that of the Chinese interpreter, the heads of six men and
five women had been taken after a successful attack on the two prahus in
which the Kayans (Oma-Lakan) travelled. The Kenyahs (Oma-Kulit) who had
committed the outrage had been apprehended by the Company, as the
government is called by the natives. The brother of the chief of Long
Pelaban, who was with us fishing, three months previously had returned
from Samarinda, where he had spent one year in prison for having been
implicated in a minor way in this crime, while the main offenders were
serving labor terms of six years in Sorabaia, Java.
This report was confirmed by a Dutch officer whom I met a month later and
who came from Apo Kayan. The attacking Kenyahs were eighty in number, of
whom ten were punished. The affair took place in 1912 at a distance of six
hours, going down-stream, from Long Nawang. Though head-hunters are known
to travel wide and far, and distant Apo Kayan is not too remote for them,
nevertheless to me, as well as to Chonggat, the risks seemed unfounded;
however, there remained no alternative but for all of us to return to Long
Pelaban.
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