Through Central Borneo An Account Of Two Years' Travel In The Land Of The Head-Hunters Between The Years 1913 And 1917 By Carl Lumholtz
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This Was Trying, But One Cannot
Expect Every Advantage In The Tropics, Which Are So Beautiful Most Of The
Year That I, For One, Gladly Put Up With The Discomforts Of A Wet Season.
Rain-storms came from the north and northeast; from our high point of
view, one could see them approaching and hear the noise of the rain on the
top of the jungle many minutes before they arrived.
A few times,
especially at night, we had storms that lasted for hours, reaching
sometimes a velocity of eighty kilometres an hour. The trees of the jungle
are naturally not exposed to the force of the wind, standing all together,
so those surrounding our clearing seemed helpless, deprived of their usual
support. Some smaller ones, apparently of soft wood, which had been left
on the clearing, were broken, and the green leaves went flying about. On
one occasion at dusk Banglan stood a long time watching for any
suspicious-looking tree that might threaten to fall over the camp.
Torrents of rain fell during the night and we could barely keep dry within
our tents. The rain was more persistent here in the vicinity of the lower
Kayan than in any other part of Borneo during my two years of travel
through that country.
White-tailed, wattled pheasants (lobiophasis), rare in the museums, were
very numerous here. This beautiful bird has a snow-white tail and its head
is adorned with four cobalt-blue appendages, two above and two underneath
the head. The Dayaks caught this and other birds alive in snares, which
they are expert in constructing. I kept one alive for many days, and it
soon became tame. It was a handsome, brave bird, and I was sorry one day
to find it dead from want of proper nourishment, the Dayaks having been
unable to find sufficient rain-worms for it.
The beautiful small deer, kidyang, was secured several times. Its meat is
the best of all game in Borneo, although the Kayans look upon it with
disfavour. When making new fields for rice-planting, if such an animal
should appear, the ground is immediately abandoned.
Scarcely fifty metres below the top of the hill was our water supply,
consisting of a scanty amount of running water, which stopped now and then
to form tiny pools, and to my astonishment the Dayaks one day brought from
these some very small fish which I preserved in alcohol. Naturally the
water swells much in time of rain, but still it seems odd that such small
fish could reach so high a point.
Many insects were about at night. Longicornes scratched underneath my bed,
and moths hovered about my American hurricane lamp hanging outside the
tent-door. Leeches also entered the tent and seemed to have a predilection
for the tin cans in which my provisions and other things were stored. In
the dim lamplight I could sometimes see the uncanny shadows of their
bodies on the canvas, raised and stretched to an incredible height, moving
their upper parts quickly to all sides before proceeding on their "forward
march." To some people, myself included, their bite is poisonous, and on
the lower part of the legs produces wounds that may take weeks to cure.
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