Through Central Borneo An Account Of Two Years' Travel In The Land Of The Head-Hunters Between The Years 1913 And 1917 By Carl Lumholtz
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Some Distance From The Water Stood A Lonely House,
In Genuine Malay Style, With High-Gabled Roof.
The stairs afforded
precarious access, a condition which may have been regarded as a
protection, but more likely it was due to laziness and want of care.
However that may have been, the interior was surprisingly substantial,
with an excellent floor like that in a ballroom.
I slept in a detached
ramshackle room used as a kitchen, comfortable because of being open to
the air.
In the morning the Malays were again too late. I was ready for a start at
six o'clock, but about that time they began to cook. The small river,
perhaps twenty metres wide, is deep enough to have allowed a steam-launch
of the Selatan's dimensions to go as far as the kampong Rongkang, our
first destination, and there is little current. At five o'clock we had to
stop to give the men opportunity to prepare their rice, and in the evening
we arrived at Rongkang. The gongs were being beaten lustily in the
darkness; we thought it must be on account of a death, which proved to be
the case, a woman having died some days before. The house which was placed
at my disposal was more nearly airtight than usual.
The kapala said it was difficult to get men, but he would do his best. A
strange epidemic had lately appeared, and some deaths had occurred in the
kampongs of this region. In the room I occupied a woman had recently
recovered from an attack of a week's duration. The disease, which probably
is a variety of cholera, was described to me as being a severe diarrhoea
accompanied by vomiting, paralysis, and fever, the crisis occurring in
three to five days. The disorder appears to rise from the feet, and if it
settles between the liver and heart may prove fatal in half a day. As I
learned later, this illness, which the Malays call men-tjo-tjok, is
usually present in the inland region of the Sampit River, and is also
found on the upper parts of the Kahayan and Pembuang Rivers.
People in this neighbourhood were lappar (hungry), having no rice, and the
men were absent in the utan looking for rattan, white damar, and rubber,
which they exchange for rice from Chinese traders. Under such
circumstances, chiefly women and children are left in the kampongs. Of
nearly thirty men needed for my overland trip, only three could be
mustered here. One Dayak who was perfectly well in the evening came next
morning to consult me about the prevalent illness which he had contracted
during the night. The only available course was to return to Sampit.
The name of the Dayaks here and on Lake Sembulo is Tamoan (or Samoan),
with intermixture of Katingans, who are said to understand each other's
language. Most of these friendly natives had fair-sized beards, some only
mustaches. The elder men complainingly said that the younger ones no
longer want to tatu nor cut the front teeth.
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