Through Central Borneo An Account Of Two Years' Travel In The Land Of The Head-Hunters Between The Years 1913 And 1917 By Carl Lumholtz
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He Also Obligingly Sent Dato Mansur Up
The River To Kaburau, The Principal Kayan Kampong (Village) To Secure Men
And Boats For An Intended Expedition Inland From There.
The main business of Tandjong Selor, as everywhere in Borneo, is buying
rattan, rubber, and damar (a kind of resin) from the Malays and the
Dayaks, and shipping it by steamer to Singapore.
As usual, trade is almost
entirely in the hands of the Chinese. The great event of the place is the
arrival of the steamer twice a month. When the whistle is heard from down
the river a great yell arises from all over the town. The steamer is
coming! People by the hundreds run down to the wharf amid great excitement
and joy. Many Malays do not work except on these occasions, when they are
engaged in loading and unloading. The principal Chinese merchant there,
Hong Seng, began his career as a coolie on the wharf. He has a fairly
well-stocked store with some European and American preserved articles, and
was reliable in his dealings, as the Chinese always are. He was rich
enough to have of late taken to himself a young wife, besides keeping his
first one. His two young sons who assisted him had been at school in
Singapore, and were proud to air their knowledge of English.
The house where I lived was on the main street, on the river bank, and in
the evening the little shops on either side started playing nasty, cheap
European phonographs the noise of which was most disagreeable. Most of the
records were of Chinese music, the harsh quality of which was magnified
tenfold by the imperfections of the instruments. When the nerve-wracking
concert became intolerable, they were always good enough to stop it at my
request.
However, there was one feature about this remote place which was
repugnant - the prevalent flogging of children with rattan, mostly among
the Mohammedan Malays. Not a day passed without wails and violent cries
arising in some part of the town, especially during the forenoon, although
I did not perceive that the children here were more incorrigible than
elsewhere. The Dayaks never beat their children, and later I did not
observe similar cruelty among Malays. Wise though King Solomon was, his
precept not to spare the rod should be regarded in the light of his large
family, "700 wives, princesses, and 300 concubines." Even in the training
of animals, better results are obtained by omitting the lash.
In the beginning of January, 1914, I was able to start for Kaburau. The
controleur courteously provided for my use the government's steamship
Sophia, which in six hours approached within easy distance of the
kampong. My party consisted of Ah Sewey, a young Chinese photographer from
Singapore whom I had engaged for developing plates and films, also
Chonggat, a Sarawak Dayak who had had his training at the museum of Kuala
Lampur in the Malay Peninsula. Finally, Go Hong Cheng, a Chinese trader,
acted as interpreter and mandur (overseer). He spoke several Dayak
dialects, but not Dutch, still less English, for Malay is the lingua
franca of the Dutch Indies as well as of the Malay Peninsula.
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