Through Central Borneo An Account Of Two Years' Travel In The Land Of The Head-Hunters Between The Years 1913 And 1917 By Carl Lumholtz
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Several Old Men, Now Dead, Had Their Bodies, Even Their
Backs, Legs, And Faces, Covered With Tatu Marks, And One Thus Decorated
Was Said Still To Be Living.
Near the kampong Pendahara, where we camped the first night, were many of
the majestic tapang trees which I first noticed on the Barito.
In the calm
evening after a light shower, with the moon almost full, their tall stems
and beautiful crowns were reflected in the placid water. The Katingans
guard and protect these trees because they are the abode of bees, and when
the Malays cut them down the Dayaks are indignant. Both honey and wax are
gathered, the latter to be sold. The nest is reached in the customary
manner by a ladder of sharpened bamboo pegs driven into the rather soft
wood as the man ascends. The gathering is done at night, an assistant
bearing a torch made of bark and filled with damar or wax. The native
first smears himself with honey in order that the bees shall not sting
him; when he reaches the deposit a large bark bucket is hoisted up and
filled. In lowering it the honey sometimes disappears, my informant said,
because antoh is very fond of it.
About noon, as we were passing a ladang near Bali, we heard the beating of
a gong, also weird singing by a woman. It was evident that a ceremony of
some kind was in progress, probably connected with funeral observances, so
I ordered a halt. As we lay by many people gathered on the top of the
steep bank. We learned that an old woman had died and that the ceremonies
were being performed in her honour. I climbed the ladder and found in
front of me a house on poles, simply constructed, as they always are at
the ladangs. Several of the men wore chavats; an elderly female blian sang
continuously, and a fire was burning outside.
Ascending the ladder of the house I entered a dingy room into which the
light came sparingly. In a corner many women were sitting silently. Near
them stood one of the beautiful red baskets for which the Katingans higher
up the river are famous. As I proceeded a little further an extremely fine
carved casket met my astonished eyes. Judging from its narrowness the
deceased, who had been ill for a long time, must have been very thin when
she passed away, but the coffin, to which the cover had been fastened with
damar, was of excellent proportions and symmetrical in shape. The material
was a lovely white wood of Borneo, on which were drawn large round flowers
on graceful vines, done in a subdued light red colour procured from a
pigment found in the earth. The effect was magnificent, reminding me of
French tapestries. Two diminutive and unfinished mats were lying on the
cover, symbolising clothing for the deceased, and tufts of long, beautiful
grass had been tied to the top at either end. The coffin was to be placed
on a platform in the utan.
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