In fact their relations were ideal, and
it seemed a pity that these fine boys should grow to manhood and die in
dense ignorance.
I doubt whether any traveller, including the honest missionary, disagrees
with the terse sentence of the great Wallace in The Malay Archipelago:
"We may safely affirm that the better specimens of savages are much
superior to the lower examples of civilised peoples." Revolting customs
are found, to be sure, among native races, but there are also redeeming
virtues. Is there a so-called Christian community of which it may be truly
said that its members do not steal, as is the case with the majority of
Dayak tribes? There are savage races who are truthful, and the North
American Indians never broke a treaty.
In the morning, when beginning my return journey, I had to send more than
once to the kampong below to ask the men to come, because of their
reluctance to carry burdens. We had to proceed slowly, and early in the
afternoon reached the summit of the watershed, which naturally is not at
its highest here, the elevation ascertained by boiling-point thermometer
being 815 metres. At a temperature of 85 F., among shady trees, a short
rest was very acceptable, and to get down the range proved quick work as
the woods were not dense. Afterward we followed a path through tall grass
over fallen trunks, crossing numerous gullies and rivulets. As darkness
approached, clouds gathered threateningly and rain began to fall. It was
really a pleasure to have the kapala of Tumingki meet us a couple of
kilometres before arriving there. A man whom I had sent ahead to the river
Tappin for the purpose of securing more baskets and to bring a woman to
interpret the designs, had evidently told him about us.
CHAPTER XXIX
THE BALEI OR TEMPLE - A LITTLE KNOWN PART OF THE COUNTRY - A COURTEOUS
MALAY - POWER OVER ANIMALS - NEGARA
The kapala cleared the way with his parang, and just before dusk we
arrived at the balei, a large structure which the people had taken as a
permanent abode, having no houses and possessing ladangs near by. Many
fires were burning inside, round which the families had gathered cooking
rice, and my entire party also easily found room. The kapala at once sent
out five men to gather the necessary coolies for the continuance of our
journey the following day.
The carriers were slow in coming, and while waiting in the morning I
catalogued four baskets which my messenger had brought from Tappin and a
few more which I was able to buy here. The woman from Tappin, who
accompanied my man, was even better informed than Dongiyak. She knew
designs with remarkable certainty, and it was gratifying to be able to
confirm information gathered before, also in two instances to correct
errors.
