Through Central Borneo An Account Of Two Years' Travel In The Land Of The Head-Hunters Between The Years 1913 And 1917 By Carl Lumholtz
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I Heard Of A German Who Walked From Bandjermasin To
Samarinda Because He Was Afraid Of Being Captured If He Went By Steamer.
The Journey Took Him Six Weeks.
It was my intention, while waiting here a
few days for the steamer, to visit a locality farther down the river which
is marked on the map as having Hindu antiquities.
The kapala of the
district, who had been there, was sent for, and as he said that he had
neither seen nor heard of any such relics, which probably would have to be
searched for, I relinquished the trip. Hindu remains, which locally were
known to be present in a cave north of Samarinda, had been visited in 1915
by the former assistant resident, Mr. A.W. Spaan, whose report on the
journey was placed at my disposal. The cave is in a mountain which bears
the name Kong Beng, Mountain of Images, due probably to a local Dayak
language. It lies in an uninhabited region four days' march west of
Karangan, or nearly two days' east of the River Telen, the nearest Dayaks,
who are said to be Bahau, living on the last-named river. During the time
of Sultan Suleiman six or seven statues were taken from Kong Beng to
Batavia and presented to the museum there.
The country traversed from the River Pantun, to follow Mr. Spaan's
account, at first is somewhat hilly, changes gradually into undulating
country, and finally into a plain in the middle of which, quite
singularly, rises this lonely limestone mountain, full of holes and caves,
about 1,000 metres long, 400 broad, and 100 high, with perpendicular
walls. The caves are finely formed and have dome-shaped roofs, but few
stalactite formations appear. Thousands of bats live there and the ground
is covered with a thick layer of guano. From the viewpoint of natural
beauty these caves are far inferior to the well-known cave of Kimanis in
the Birang (on the River Berau, below the Kayan) with its extraordinarily
beautiful stalactite formations. In one of the caves with a low roof were
found eleven Hindu images; only the previous day the regent of Kutei had
turned the soil over and recovered a couple more archaeological remains.
Ten of these relics are in has-relief and about a metre high. The
eleventh, which is lower, represents the sacred ox and is sculptured in
its entirety. One bas-relief from which the head had been broken struck
the observer as being finely executed; he recognized four Buddhas, one
Durga, and one Ganesha.
Another cave visited was noteworthy on account of a strong wind which
continually issues from it and for which he was unable to account. The
current is formed in the opening, and twenty-five metres back of it there
is no movement of the atmosphere. The cave is low, but after ten minutes'
walk it becomes higher and has connection with the outside air. There it
is very high, and the sun's rays falling in produced a magnificent effect,
but no wind was noticeable there.
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